Currey's Diagonal 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, FFA: Steve Matous & Doug Cairns, 1974 or '75. |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on Jul 7, 2001 |
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John Langston leading: taken March 2001 by Stacy B...
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Description Currey's Diagonal is the right-leaning crack with tree at 30 feet in the middle of the NW face of the Holdout. The crux comes in the layback moves with thin feet before reaching the tree. Handsized cracks and more layaways before the rap anchor. Eliminate the use of the tree as handhold to increase the pump! Technical and pumpy.
Protection Standard rack emphasizing the small (TCUs and RPs) and medium gear. Several fixed pins and small tree to sling on the route. 2 bolt rap anchor at the top.
Ray Ellington in the evening alpenglow on Curreys ...
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Mike Willig.
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| Comments on Currey's Diagonal |
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By Chad Stebbins
Jul 3, 2002
| Absolute must do in this area. Great and unique climb, very aesthetic. Two fixed pis in the thin section before the tree, the rest is gear. |
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 21, 2002
| This is really strange, just browsing this site, checking out a bunch of my favorites and what do I find? A picture of me half way up this climb. Stacy have you been stalking me again? John |
By Craig Scariot
Jul 14, 2004
| As of 7-14-04 the hangers were missing from the anchor bolts. Same with many, if not all, climbs on Holdout. Unknown at this point as to why. |
By willem
Sep 15, 2004
| As of last weekend. Two nice chains at the anchor. I am glad I didnt' have the fortune of the ascentionist in the previous comments! |
By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Oct 4, 2007
| This is a lot trickier than it looks from the ground. If you're not solid on 10s, then you better not mind a swinging fall if you blow it getting to the tree. Not dangerous just exciting. I almost blew it grabbing for the tree, then I gave it a big hug. Props to anyone who can sling that and keep going w/o using it! The climbing keeps your attention even after the tree. And the very last section is kinda strange. A unique Vedauwoo classic. |
By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
Jan 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c
| Who was Currey ? I'm sure in my vast collection of moth eaten guidebooks dating back to '72 when I first started climbing at the 'Woo, if they're still readable, buried in my crawlspace, there is the info.
Meanwhile, who got the FFA? I'm sure Layne's book had the info, but I can't find it in my bookcase.
I vividly recall my onsight lead of it back in '76, just after leading "Finally" when our "crew" from CSU spent a weekend prior to the start of my last fall semester there. |
By Steve Matous
Oct 12, 2010
| I did the FFA in 1974 or '75 with Doug Cairns following. |
By Tom Ormond
Aug 1, 2011
| Just made my first trip to the Woo. This was my first route there. I will be going back next weekend. And the weekend after that. And after that.... Just need to get a pair of brass knuckles and my wide crack rack will be complete. |
By Tom Kelley
Feb 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d
| An atypical Voo route. I agree wholeheartedly with the above comments that Currey's Diagonal is a riot and should be done by anyone who can get to the base of the climb.
Be kind to your second. The thrills and anguish of cleaning this route are not trivial. I also think most "Out-of-Towners" will agree that it would net a 5.10+ rating in many other climbing areas. |
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