Climb exactly behind the tree in the picture, where the route actually lies. Nice route, pretty difficult for the grade--fun route. Stay right up the middle of the face.
Protection
Flexible cams, tri-cams for pockets. This may be toproped, but the setup is complicated--there are no solid trees, and only an old 1/4" bolt that's not in line for this route. Especially long slings or an extra rope might help plus some wide crack pro as anchors.
Good route. We used the aforementioned slung flake, a #3 Camalot, and the bolt to set up the TR. I don't think the route can go "straight up the middle" and stay at the 5.9 grade, though. You will have to skirt a lower blank spot and then rejoin the line at around 1/3 of the way up, just below the climber's location in the photo below.
Definitely on the harder side of 5.9, at least for one move.
By kevin jenkins From: Parker, Co Jun 30, 2004 rating: 5.9-
i would say that this deserve a solid .9 but i think the comment is correct - going straight up the middle is a good way to keep this below .9 on either side of the middle there are some decent variations, but none that would push it more than a .10, so have fun and explore!
By Jeremy Hakes From: Golden, Colorado May 28, 2008
Someone removed the two hangers from the bolts at the top of this route. The bolts are still there, just need new hangers, and evidently epoxy on the nuts so no one else removes them again.
Thanks for the update Jeremy. I'll try to remember to bring some new hangers and nuts next time I'm in the area. This is not unusual for Castlewood, with such easy access to the top of the routes. I've had dozens of hangers stolen over the years and it really sucks. I don't have the extra finances to re-equip routes any more, so it is getting tougher to maintain fixed anchors.
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