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The Moratorium, Cody DescriptionThe town of Cody is located in Wyomings NW corner, about 50 miles east of the Yellowstone National Park east entrance. Climbing opportunities abound in the Shoshone Canyon West of town, offering sandstone bouldering, limestone and granite sport cragging, and a variety of traditional routes primarily on the granite. In addition, world class ice climbing with an air of adventure can be found 40 miles south of town along the South Fork of the Shoshone River. Getting ThereThe Shoshone canyon is located on Hwy 14/16/20 a few miles west of the city limits. The turn off for cedar mountain bouldering is the first left after entering the canyon. It is the obvious switchback dirt road leading up the mountain. The limestone crags are on the north side of the road on Rattlesnake Mountain accessed by the only two right turn options in the canyon. The granite areas are at the west end of the canyon near the tunnels and deep in the canyon near the river. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cody:
Mean Green WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Moonrise WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 420 feet, Grade III South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Bozo's Revenge WI3+ Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 100 feet South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Cabin Fever WI4 Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 200 feet South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
The Schoolhouse Route WI4 Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Stringer WI3+ Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160 feet South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Spyin' 'n Flyin' WI5 Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
The Main Vein WI4 PG13 Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
The Moratorium WI4+ Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Broken Hearts WI5-6 Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
High on Boulder WI4 Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Smooth Emerald Milkshake WI4 Ice, Alpine, 800 feet South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Smoked Turkey WI3 Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
The Pillar of Pain WI5 Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120 feet South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Dirt Boss Traverse V3 Boulder, 60 feet Cedar Mountain Boulders : Dirt Boss Area
Bruce's Crack 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Island
Feelin' All Right 5.8 Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Island
Pea Green Limosine 5.10b Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Island
Illegal Dihedral 5.10d Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 85 feet The Island
Light Tension 5.11b Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 85 feet The Island
Featured Route For Cody
 I think the true crux to this route is the approach. Plan on anywhere from an hour (if you are an aerobic animal) to 2 hours. The Moratorium is the longest continuous flow in the area. Locals said that it doesn't form up every year. The route can be thin and unprotectable to thick smooth ice. The leader definitely needs to be aware of ice that is released. The 1st pitch leaves the belayer really exposed to falling ice. End of the 1st pitch is a small shelf that is on the left side of the route....[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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