Type: Ice, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chad Chadwick, Bill Dockins early 1980's
Page Views: 10,025 total · 46/month
Shared By: Kevin Fox on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Jim Clarke, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

66 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

I think the true crux to this route is the approach. Plan on anywhere from an hour (if you are an aerobic animal) to 2 hours. The Moratorium is the longest continuous flow in the area. Locals said that it doesn't form up every year. The route can be thin and unprotectable to thick smooth ice. The leader definitely needs to be aware of ice that is released.

The 1st pitch leaves the belayer really exposed to falling ice. End of the 1st pitch is a small shelf that is on the left side of the route. Great place to also set a v-thread for the rap off.

The 2nd pitch goes up a steep curtain, and after forty or fifty feet turns into a sloping ledge to an easy finish, or there is a steep curtain on the right.

For the descent you have to rappel the route. Make a V-thread at the top, if there isn't one already. When rappelling, shoot for the shelf that you set up your first hanging belay at. Aaron Mulkey's advice (which worked) was to leave the screws that you set up the anchor with at the first belay. That way, you have something to clip into. The last rappel is pretty straightforward.

This is definitely a classic not to be missed.

Protection Suggest change

Screws and sling material to make v-threads. Two 60-meter ropes. Plan on each pitch being a full rope length.