Type: Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches
FA: P1&2: Tod Cozzens, Ric Miller, Jim Montgomery, 1989/90
Page Views: 4,405 total · 22/month
Shared By: Stymingersfink on Dec 26, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jim Clarke, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This climb begins down by the river, requiring one to rap in. If the second pitch is less than secure, it may be wise to leave a fixed rope, or perhaps not even do the first two pitchs... Use your best judgement.

p1 - WI3, 50m
p2 - WI3+, 7m
p3 - WI3, 50m
p4 - WI4, 50m
p5 - WI4+, 20m

You can walk off after p5 on skiers left of the pitch. P3 and 4 need to be rappelled from trees.

Location Suggest change

From the Cabin Creek lot cross the river towards High on Boulder. When you hit the south fork trail turn right to head south deeper upper river. The trail will eventually head uphill and you'll see a prominent box canyon on your right. The route bisects the left (southeast) wall of the box canyon, and if you look carefully you should be able to see the walls of the slot that hosts the route. Both the box canyon and the route are clearly visible on a topo, especially with slope shading. The route is about 2.5 miles from the river crossing or 3.5 miles from the cabin creek lot. Budget around 2 hours for the approach.

The trail intersects the route between pitches 2 and 3. Rappel in to the bottom of the route down a narrowing slot that places you on the shore of the river inside the box canyon. Climb back out, across the trail, and up an addition 3 pitches.

The tube on the final pitch should not be missed. 60m half-ropes are the minimum I would suggest. V-thread or sling vegetation and rap the route.

The trail crosses the route at 44.0771 N, -109.6461 W.

Protection Suggest change

Screws... some small-med gear might be handy if P2 is in mixed shape.