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Routes in South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Doug Birkholts and Todd Cozzens
Page Views: 10,118 total · 67/month
Shared By: Alan Searcy on Jan 26, 2006 with updates from Bogdan P
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

As you're driving in, this is one of two obviously great lines across the Shoshone River. Mean Green's first pitch is the long, thin line 1/2 mile left of the wider High on Boulder/Moonrise flow. Up high on the right side of the drainage above pitch one and all the rock bands, you will see an incredibly wide flow of leprechaun-green WI 3.

Park at the end of the road, take the trail around the fenced in ranch, cross the river and hit the riverbank trail. Take the trail down to the Mean Green drainage and hike uphill. The approach looks short and sweet........

Pitch 1: 60 meters of WI 4.
Pitch 2: 25 meters of WI 4+.
Pitch 3: 30 meters of WI 3+.
Pitch 4: (2018 Update: Pitch 4, the crux, is quite a bit shorter than it used to be. A large debris flow accumulated at the base of this pitch. It is now a WI4 25 meters.)
Pitches 5,6,7 are roughly 140 meters of WI 3.

Rap the route on V-threads and the occasional bolt and bring a headlamp.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Ice screws; shit-can your rock gear for this one.
Get to this climb early in the AM and don't forget the headlamp....It would take the better part of a day to get back to the huge flows (way back) that you see from the road. After the first 2 pitches, you are in the middle of nowhere (or so it seems) and you realize that Cody is heaven. Aug 14, 2006
Todd Cozzens
Cody, WY
Todd Cozzens   Cody, WY
F.A. by Doug Birkholts and Todd Cozzens Aug 23, 2006
Dustin Clelen
Boulder, CO
 
Dustin Clelen   Boulder, CO
 
Beta correction: The first pitch is not more than 60m - we did it on 1/19/10 with a 60m rope no problem. Jan 21, 2010
Climbed the upper pitches of Mean Green on 2/28/16. Likely the last ascent this year, as it's just been warmer since then. We skipped pitches 1-3 by climbing Duck Soup instead, and traversing across the bench to the base of MG P4. Pretty cool combo, though not having done 1-3 I can't comment on what's better. I do know that this was a reasonable way to get up there given the scrappy conditions low on MG. And could be an option (up or down) if MG has another party or two on it. We also did a walk off from the top of MG. If you want, shoot me a message (email is better than PM. jediahmporter at gmail) and I can send you the gps file. Incidentally, that plateau at the top of MG's final green slab pitches is slowly slumping into the abyss. It's about an acre of jumbled trees, mud crevasses, and millions of tons of dirt ready to drop down the gully. Some slid a few years back, hence the post-apocalyptic mud mess all through the gully, and the much shorter "crux" P4. When the rest goes, it'll be even more messy, potentially changing the nature of the climb significantly. P4 could disappear entirely, filled in with mud right to the lip. Mar 6, 2016
Bogdan P
Boulder, CO
  WI4
Bogdan P   Boulder, CO
  WI4
If the second pitch is the top of the first continuous flow (separated from the first ~60m pitch by an ~20' horizontal step), then it's quite a bit shorter than 40m. Buddy top roped it (don't ask why) from the step separating it from the longer flow below using one 70m rope two days ago while I belayed. There was plenty of rope left. when he was down, so it's definitely less than 35m, and probably under 30m. Looked to be 1/3rd the length of the first pitch. Jan 16, 2018
Jason Todd
Cody, WY
  WI4
Jason Todd   Cody, WY
  WI4
Pitch 4, the crux, is quite a bit shorter than it used to be. A large debris flow accumulated at the base of this pitch. It is now a 25m WI4. Jan 25, 2018

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