Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Doug Birkholts and Todd Cozzens
Page Views: 9,501 total, 66/month
Shared By: Alan Searcy on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

As you're driving in, this is one of two obviously great lines across the Shoshone River. Mean Green's first pitch is the long, thin line 1/2 mile left of the wider High on Boulder/Moonrise flow. Up high on the right side of the drainage above pitch one and all the rock bands, you will see an incredibly wide flow of leprechaun-green WI 3.

Park at the end of the road, take the trail around the fenced in ranch, cross the river and hit the riverbank trail. Take the trail down to the Mean Green drainage and hike uphill. The approach looks short and sweet........

Pitch 1: 65 meters of WI 4.
Pitch 2: 40 meters of WI 4-.
Pitch 3: 30 meters of WI 3+.
Pitch 4: 35 meters of WI 5.
Pitches 5,6,7 are roughly 140 meters of WI 3.

Rap the route on V-threads and the occasional bolt and bring a headlamp.

Protection

Ice screws; shit-can your rock gear for this one.
Climbed the upper pitches of Mean Green on 2/28/16. Likely the last ascent this year, as it's just been warmer since then. We skipped pitches 1-3 by climbing Duck Soup instead, and traversing across the bench to the base of MG P4. Pretty cool combo, though not having done 1-3 I can't comment on what's better. I do know that this was a reasonable way to get up there given the scrappy conditions low on MG. And could be an option (up or down) if MG has another party or two on it. We also did a walk off from the top of MG. If you want, shoot me a message (email is better than PM. jediahmporter at gmail) and I can send you the gps file. Incidentally, that plateau at the top of MG's final green slab pitches is slowly slumping into the abyss. It's about an acre of jumbled trees, mud crevasses, and millions of tons of dirt ready to drop down the gully. Some slid a few years back, hence the post-apocalyptic mud mess all through the gully, and the much shorter "crux" P4. When the rest goes, it'll be even more messy, potentially changing the nature of the climb significantly. P4 could disappear entirely, filled in with mud right to the lip. Mar 6, 2016
Dustin Clelen
Boulder, CO
 
Dustin Clelen   Boulder, CO
 
Beta correction: The first pitch is not more than 60m - we did it on 1/19/10 with a 60m rope no problem. Jan 21, 2010
Todd Cozzens
Cody, WY
Todd Cozzens   Cody, WY
F.A. by Doug Birkholts and Todd Cozzens Aug 23, 2006
Get to this climb early in the AM and don't forget the headlamp....It would take the better part of a day to get back to the huge flows (way back) that you see from the road. After the first 2 pitches, you are in the middle of nowhere (or so it seems) and you realize that Cody is heaven. Aug 14, 2006