Type: Ice, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches
FA: Pitches 1-5: Todd Cozzens, Ric Miller (1988/89), Pitch 6: Stan Price, Jim Krudener (1992), Pitch 7: Stan Price, Aaron Huey (March, 2000), P8&P9 Jon Ju
Page Views: 12,143 total · 58/month
Shared By: Andrew Klein on Feb 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jim Clarke, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


76 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Broken Hearts has one of the more milder approaches in Cody. Allow 30-45 minutes. The gully is 3.4 miles from the Ishawooa Mesa Trailhead. Park by some cottonwood trees when you can see the first 2 pitches from the road. The route meanders in a gully and some short WI3 steps 5-20 feet high are encountered in between the main pitches, which are a short slog of 5-15 minutes. Pitches 6 & 7 (both WI6) are rarely formed. This is probably one of the longer ice routes in the lower 48 esp. if all pitches are in. Pitch 3 tends to be baked. In the 5th pitch amphitheatre the climb on the left is the Carotid Artery (M7 and/or WI6-FA Alex Lowe, Todd Cozzens, early 1990's) and the climb on the right, My Only Valentine, is the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts. Cheers!

P1: WI3
P2: WI3
P3: WI3+
P4: WI3
P5: WI5 (My Only Valentine)
P6: WI6
P7: WI6
P8: WI4
P9: WI3

Descent: Use No-Threads, and the bolted belay stations found primarily on the climbers left of all the steep pitches below P5. Trees can also be used to rap a few of the pitches. One can also walk-off from before the 5th pitch amphitheatre. Check out Doug's comment below for more info.

Protection Suggest change

Ice Screws, No-Threads and bolted anchors for descent

Photos

loading