Type: Ice, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches
FA: Pitches 1-5: Todd Cozzens, Ric Miller (1988/89), Pitch 6: Stan Price, Jim Krudener (1992), Pitch 7: Stan Price, Aaron Huey (March, 2000), P8&P9 Jon Ju
Page Views: 12,143 total · 58/month
Shared By: Andrew Klein on Feb 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jim Clarke, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Broken Hearts has one of the more milder approaches in Cody. Allow 30-45 minutes. The gully is 3.4 miles from the Ishawooa Mesa Trailhead. Park by some cottonwood trees when you can see the first 2 pitches from the road. The route meanders in a gully and some short WI3 steps 5-20 feet high are encountered in between the main pitches, which are a short slog of 5-15 minutes. Pitches 6 & 7 (both WI6) are rarely formed. This is probably one of the longer ice routes in the lower 48 esp. if all pitches are in. Pitch 3 tends to be baked. In the 5th pitch amphitheatre the climb on the left is the Carotid Artery (M7 and/or WI6-FA Alex Lowe, Todd Cozzens, early 1990's) and the climb on the right, My Only Valentine, is the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts. Cheers!

P1: WI3
P2: WI3
P3: WI3+
P4: WI3
P5: WI5 (My Only Valentine)
P6: WI6
P7: WI6
P8: WI4
P9: WI3

Descent: Use No-Threads, and the bolted belay stations found primarily on the climbers left of all the steep pitches below P5. Trees can also be used to rap a few of the pitches. One can also walk-off from before the 5th pitch amphitheatre. Check out Doug's comment below for more info.

Protection Suggest change

Ice Screws, No-Threads and bolted anchors for descent