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I'll Tell You What's Cool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Grybauskas 2015
Page Views: 1,756 total · 56/month
Shared By: mushroom on Dec 20, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Tell a friend!! Clean sport climbing on adventurous 5.8. Tops out on the rim! Enjoy spectacular views as you wander up the spacey arete with great face climbing and airy exposure. All pitches sport protected! Bring 13 draws! Rap route from any anchor with 60m rope or walk off.

P1 -- 9 bolts, 5.3, 120'
P2 -- 6 bolts, 5.5, 60'
P3 -- 11 bolts, 5.8, 100'
P4 -- 9 bolts, 5.8+, 90'
P5 -- 13 bolts, 5.7, 100'
P6 -- 11 bolts, 5.7, 100'
P7 -- 5 bolts, 5.5, 50'

Keep an eye out for unintended rope drag on wandering pitches! Shouldn't be a problem!

Getting There

Approach:
20 min. Leaving Cody toward Yellowstone. Park at last large pull-out on left before tunnels. Descend climbers trail behind info sign to lower road. Hike up canyon, after tunnel cross river at sieve (need low water!!). Scramble up talus to trail at base of cliff. Walk west up a small switchback to next cliff on trail. At edge of cliff, just before a large ravine, scramble 100' 4th class to 1st pitch behind large tree.

Descent:

Euros -- rap route with 60m rope. Hint: rap directly from p3 anchor to p1 anchor, 100'. From top of 1st pitch, rap down gully to climber's left, be careful of loose rocks!
Americans -- walk off 30 min. From top go climbers right follow sandstone edge up easy terrain to cliff band. Cut left and traverse side-hill on easy terrain. Go 100 yards around large bowl, climb out of trees onto open hill side down to 2-track. Follow 2-track past antenna, past power station, to road. Follow road downhill and over bridge. Try walking up long culvert pipe instead of climbers trail!

Protection

13 draws, 60m rope

Photos

JSchloem
Homer, AK
JSchloem   Homer, AK
Nick, you are so fckin cool! Jan 28, 2016
Nick Goldsmith
Pomfret VT
Nick Goldsmith   Pomfret VT
River crossing is totally sketch! we could not do it in late june last year. Jun 17, 2017
Jason Todd
Cody, WY
  5.8
Jason Todd   Cody, WY
  5.8
The river crossing is casual when the dam isn't releasing a lot of water (<1500 cfs). If the dam is discharging heavy, the crossing isn't sketch, it's impossible.

(Still bummed we couldn't get you on it last year Nick!)



Jun 17, 2017
River crossing also sketchy when wet. Got rain/snowed on halfway up and bailed on top of pitch 3. Getting back across after the rain had soaked the rock made the granite extreme slippery and the crossing was near impossible. Two of us crossed using a rope pretty deep upstream and threw a rope over the sieve for last member. Otherwise the first 3 pitches were fantastic and we can't wait to get back to finish it. Oct 29, 2017

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