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Cathedral Peak

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John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route) T 
Panic Pillar T 
Southeast Buttress T 

Cathedral Peak Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,911'
Location: 37.8476, -119.405 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 54,725
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 22, 2006  with updates from Anson
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Description 

One of the most stunning peaks in Yosemite, Cathedral is blessed with some great moderate climbing. The approach takes about an hour and is long enough from the road and hiking trails to give you a little peace (often to be shared with many climbers - start early).

The summit is a small block big enough for a couple people to squeeze on. Their might be bolts on the top, but usually not. Downclimbing off the summit block can be scary, but John Muir did it in 1869, so you can too.

It's a great big lightning rod - get off ASAP if thunder comes your way. Other than descending, escaping up and right is the usually possible until you get to talus.

Getting There 

From the Cathedral Lakes trailhead, take the main trail for 10 minutes. Soon after a set of stone steps look, look for a major climbers trail branching left (see photo). Do not get suckered into an earlier, smaller path that follows the stream. Keep on the trail until it fades away near the base Cathedral Peak. Pick the easiest path to the lowest point of the southeast buttress.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cathedral Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cathedral Peak:
John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route)   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 400'   
Southeast Buttress   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'   
Panic Pillar   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cathedral Peak

Featured Route For Cathedral Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan leading up the first pitch

Southeast Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Cathedral Peak
You can really climb all over the southest buttress. You get the most climbing if you start at it's lowest point, in the middle. Many people start up and to the right a little, which loses some vertical, and the first pitch over there isn't so good.However you start, after 3 pitches, steadily increasing from 5.3 to 5.6, you'll probably be funneled into a chimney. It can get crowded here, and a backpack can be a real pain. Climb around to the left and it's smooth sailing however.There are so ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Cathedral Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral Peak! enough said.
Cathedral Peak! enough said.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turn left off the main Cathedral Lakes trail here ...
BETA PHOTO: Turn left off the main Cathedral Lakes trail here ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan on the Cathedral Peak summit, looking down a...
Megan on the Cathedral Peak summit, looking down a...
Rock Climbing Photo: cathedral peak
cathedral peak
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the descent including smoldering fire, m...
View from the descent including smoldering fire, m...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral as approached from Echo Ridge
Cathedral as approached from Echo Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral Peak (R) and Eichorn's Pinnacle (L).  Vi...
Cathedral Peak (R) and Eichorn's Pinnacle (L). Vi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yet another stunning view from the top.
Yet another stunning view from the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: The graceful slab of Cathedral's SE buttress.
The graceful slab of Cathedral's SE buttress.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral Peak
Cathedral Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from below Cathedral Peak as you start th...
The view from below Cathedral Peak as you start th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral Peak from the south; Eichorn Pinnacle is...
Cathedral Peak from the south; Eichorn Pinnacle is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent:  From summit make your way to the saddle ...
BETA PHOTO: Descent: From summit make your way to the saddle ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Awsome Veiw from Cathedral peak
The Awsome Veiw from Cathedral peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral, May 2009
Cathedral, May 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: a day in the life
a day in the life
Rock Climbing Photo: .
.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve on the summit of Cathedral Peak with Tuolumn...
Steve on the summit of Cathedral Peak with Tuolumn...
Rock Climbing Photo: descent as seen from the summit of Eichorn
descent as seen from the summit of Eichorn
Rock Climbing Photo: Alberto ascends the 5.6 chimney in his Euro shorts...
Alberto ascends the 5.6 chimney in his Euro shorts...
Rock Climbing Photo: SE Buttress
BETA PHOTO: SE Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of Cathedral Peak (note the climber on the ...
BETA PHOTO: A view of Cathedral Peak (note the climber on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The notch between Eichorn Pinnacle and the summit.
The notch between Eichorn Pinnacle and the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral and Budd Lake from Echo Ridge
Cathedral and Budd Lake from Echo Ridge

Show All 37 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Cathedral Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan hudson
From: baltimore, MD
Aug 25, 2013
GPS cords for the bud lake trailhead. Lat 37º 52' 10"N, Long 119º 23' 12"W
By Countzen
From: Santa Monica, CA
Oct 17, 2014
The climbers route Beta in the Tulumnoe free climbs guide book (supertopo.com/packs/tuolfree.h... ) is pretty off. We were hiking in pre-sunrise and using that book as beta for the approach and got pretty lost. The actual climbers trail has been uploaded by me to wikiloc.com.

wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id...

Also some descent beta since I couldn't find visuals anywhere.
wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id...
By Damienn
From: nevada city, ca
Jun 26, 2015
I found someone's approach show up there the other day. It's only the right shoe. I meant to drop it at the trailhead but brought it home with me by accident. If it's yours let me know and I can get it back to you
By ChloeB
Jul 23, 2015
Someone dropped a pair of prescription sunglasses on me here while climbing 6/27. Email me what kind they are and I'll return them to you! bartraca@mail.uc.edu
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Aug 21, 2015
--- Invalid image id: 110916892 ---
By ARMoss
Sep 1, 2015
We spent ~30 minutes thinking we'd either missed our turn off the Cathedral Lakes Trail or hadn't gone far enough. General consensus at the base of the cliff was that the approach description was misleading. In case you don't have service to click on the links below, our opinion is that a better description of the approach would be:

From the Cathedral Lakes trailhead, take the main trail for 10 minutes. Soon after a set of stone steps look, look for a major climbers trail branching left. Follow this trail, continuing up the valley and out onto slabs, watching for cairns to mark the way. After ~1.5 miles, you will see the trail split. Do not get suckered into the smaller path that follows the stream. Keep on the trail until it fades away near the base Cathedral Peak. Pick the easiest path to the lowest point of the southeast buttress.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jul 5, 2016
Did this route July 2nd, 2016 (my 31st bday) and heard large groups at a belay up top about bailing because of coming storms. I don't think they ended up bailing but did leave 2 cams and other gear at belay ledge. Describe the belay ledge, cams and gear, including what you used to mark, my favorite beer I will be getting and I'll send you gear back. If no one responds I guess I got new gear for my birthday along with a great top out.

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