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Cascade Canyon

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Canyon Entrance 
Free Tibet Sector 
Pool Area 
Roof Area 
West Side 

Cascade Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 37.65774, -107.80962 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,333
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2006
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Cascade Canyon in the fall.

Description 

Cascade Canyon is another nice piece of the Durango climbing scene. This scenic little canyon is host to a good selection of limestone sport routes. Most are in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. There is only a handful of easier routes (5.10 and under). This is a nice summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and dirty at times. Most of the climbing is on the east side of the canyon - divided into the Canyon Entrace, Roof Area, Free Tibet Sector and Pool Area. The West Side has a small selection of climbs as well.

Getting There 

From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. Take a right on Old Lime Creek Road and park after a short distance at a small pullout on the right. Look for a climber's trail heading down into the canyon.

Rock Climbing Photo: Cascade Canyon map.
Cascade Canyon map.


Per Luke Mehall: there is now a Tyrolean traverse so that the West Side can be easily accessed from the Main Side. This eliminates the need to trespass on the water treatment plant above the West Side. Big thanks to Eric Dixon who installed the anchors, who has also been adding some sweet routes over there on the West Side! The Tyrolean can be accessed by hiking downstream from the waterfall for a couple hundred feet.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

52 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',17],['5.12',16],['5.13',8],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cascade Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cascade Canyon:
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari   V9-10 7C+     Boulder, 10'   Pool Area
One Summer's Eve   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pool Area
Colorfest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pool Area
Genesis (aka Face)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Canyon Entrance
The War Has Started   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Pool Area
Close To The Edge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pool Area
Summer of '69   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Free Tibet Sector
The Red Sea   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Canyon Entrance
30 and Dirty   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Canyon Entrance
Some People Poop   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Free Tibet Sector
Peace Crack   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   West Side
Reverse Cowgirl    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Free Tibet Sector
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitted as Track Team)   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Free Tibet Sector
La Cantina   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Roof Area
El Rancho    5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Roof Area
Buffy   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Roof Area
Hammer and a Carrot    5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Free Tibet Sector
Huffy   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Roof Area
El Jefe   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Roof Area
Sweatpants in Public    5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Roof Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cascade Canyon

Featured Route For Cascade Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Dynamic.

El Rancho 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CO : Durango : ... : Roof Area
Peanuts, sticky floors, cheep beers, and girls looking to make bad decisions. You'd be hard pressed to find a climber in DGO who hasn't had a night of fun and fornication at this classic dive bar.With no defined crux and zero fluff climbing, this route comes down to pure endurance. Expect big, thuggy moves on mostly good holds with little opportunity for rest. Begin by squeezing your way out the prominent arete feature. Fight your way into the underclings in the roof and transition onto the beau...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Cascade Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Close to the Edge can be seen on the right.
Close to the Edge can be seen on the right.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pool.
The Pool.
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew on the main flow, Cascade Canyon.
Drew on the main flow, Cascade Canyon.

Comments on Cascade Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Sep 4, 2012
Who the hell is bolting routes at Cascade? Doesn't everyone know that they are just bolting choss. I've already looked at those lines years ago, and they look like they are screaming trash. I mean climbing is here for us, we shouldn't be disturbing the balance of nature. Keep your bolts to yourself, because all the other bolted lines were natural.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Sep 13, 2012
Glad to see new routes going in. As one of the original developers, we always knew there were a few gems left. Gotta get over there and try the new stuff. Thanks to those making the effort.
By Erik Durgin
Oct 25, 2012
There are a handful of routes in the canyon with draws hanging on them. They were not abandoned or left by accident. People are projecting these routes and the draws are intentionally left in place to ease the process.

Feel free to climb on them, but PLEASE leave them in place!
By Nolan Robertson
Jun 14, 2013
If you find a dog here, please contact me, my number is (local)-7494416
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jun 17, 2013
Doesn't the sign say Lime Creek on the highway? It is Lime Creek road.
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 19, 2016
There is now a Tyrolean traverse so that the West Side can be easily accessed from the Main Side. This eliminates the need to trespass on the water treatment plant above the West Side. Big thanks to Eric Dixon who installed the anchors, who has also been adding some sweet routes over there on the West Side! The Tyrolean can be accessed by hiking downstream from the waterfall for a couple hundred feet.

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