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Cascade Canyon

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Canyon Entrance 
Free Tibet Sector 
Pool Area 
Roof Area 
West Side 

Cascade Canyon  

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Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 37.65774, -107.80962 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 46,981
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2006






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Cascade Canyon in the fall.


Cascade Canyon has a decent selection of sport routes. This is a nice summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and/or dirty from runoff and most are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range, some easier and harder ones can be found as well. The climbing is on a slick, vertical limestone. Most of the routes are on the east side of the canyon - divided into the Canyon Entrace area, Roof Area, Free Tibet Sector and Pool Area. The West Side has a handful of climbs as well, but is most often visited during the winter months for ice/mixed climbing.

Getting There 

From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. You will see a sign for Cascade Creek and a dirt road. Park a short distance up the dirt road and look for a climber's trail heading down into the canyon on the right side. There is a limited amount of parking on the side of the dirt road, but this is usually not a problem.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

44 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cascade Canyon:
Handcrack Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Roof Area
One Summer's Eve   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pool Area
Colorfest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pool Area
Genesis   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Canyon Entrance
By Tor & the Cur Dog   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Free Tibet Sector
Book of Life   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Canyon Entrance
The War Has Started   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Pool Area
Free Tibet   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Free Tibet Sector
Close To The Edge   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pool Area
The Red Sea   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Canyon Entrance
A Gentlehoe   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Roof Area
30 and Dirty   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Canyon Entrance
In the Beginning   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Canyon Entrance
Some People Poop   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Free Tibet Sector
Tibet ArÍte (originally submitted as Track Team)   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Free Tibet Sector
Reverse Cowgirl    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Free Tibet Sector
La Cantina   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Roof Area
El Rancho    5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Roof Area
Hammer and a Carrot    5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Free Tibet Sector
Huffy   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Roof Area
Browse More Classics in Cascade Canyon

Featured Route For Cascade Canyon
Crappy photo of Ben on the mid-section.

La Cantina 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CO : Durango : ... : Roof Area
La Cantina is a fantastic addition to the Roof Wall. Fun movement on some of the best rock in the canyon makes this route a must do!Start by hugging your way up the first two bolts of El Rancho. From the undercling block below bolt #3, cruise left on fun, swingy jugs to get established on a nice, juggy ledge. Rest up and launch into the pumpy mid-section of the route. Pass some taxing clips (#6-7), and power through the crux on big sidepulls, big deadpionts, and small fe...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Cascade Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Close to the Edge can be seen on the right.
Close to the Edge can be seen on the right.
The Pool.
The Pool.
Drew on the main flow, Cascade Canyon.
Drew on the main flow, Cascade Canyon.

Comments on Cascade Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Sep 4, 2012
Who the hell is bolting routes at Cascade? Doesn't everyone know that they are just bolting choss. I've already looked at those lines years ago, and they look like they are screaming trash. I mean climbing is here for us, we shouldn't be disturbing the balance of nature. Keep your bolts to yourself, because all the other bolted lines were natural.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Sep 13, 2012
Glad to see new routes going in. As one of the original developers, we always knew there were a few gems left. Gotta get over there and try the new stuff. Thanks to those making the effort.
By Erik Durgin
Oct 25, 2012
There are a handful of routes in the canyon with draws hanging on them. They were not abandoned or left by accident. People are projecting these routes and the draws are intentionally left in place to ease the process.

Feel free to climb on them, but PLEASE leave them in place!
By Nolan Robertson
Jun 14, 2013
If you find a dog here, please contact me, my number is (local)-7494416
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jun 17, 2013
Doesn't the sign say Lime Creek on the highway? It is Lime Creek road.
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