Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Cascade Canyon is another nice piece of the Durango climbing scene. This scenic little canyon is host to a good selection of limestone sport routes, mostly in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. What the area lacks in rock quality, it makes up for in beauty. Cascade is a great Summer and Fall climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Winter is typically the season for ice and mixed climbing. Spring can be hit or miss, as routes can be seepy, wet and dirty.
Development of the canyon started in the early '90s thanks to climbers like Larry Morton, Steve "Booner" Price, Jay Pezbolt, Terry Parrish, among others. Many modern day area classics were established during this time. Route development has continued throughout the canyon as new climbers continue to frequent the area.
The canyon is sub-divided as follows...
A. Friendship Wall is the first wall accessed when entering the canyon. There are a handful of shorter routes, 5.10-5.11.
B. Genesis Wall is the second group of routes accessed and host to over a dozen routes, 5.10-5.12.
C. The Time Zone is a nice area around the hand crack corner with several good 5.12-5.13 routes.
D. Futurescape Wall is easily recognized by the large roof in this section of the canyon, 5.12 - 5.13.
E. Headbangers Wall begins after the large roof. This zone contains some of the longer routes that climb aesthetic aretes and corners, 5.11-5.13.
F. Garden of Eden Wall is a scenic spot near the falls and pool. There are several area classics, 5.9-5.12.
G. Restaurant Row is across the creek. It receives morning sun and has good afternoon shade, 5.9-5.12.
From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles (past Cascade Village) to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. Take a right on Old Lime Creek Road, and park after a short distance at a small pullout on the right (park vehicles straight in, making room for others). Follow the climber's trail down to a first fork, stay left, and at the second fork, take a right towards the cliffs that should now be visible.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Chattanooga, TN
Salt Lake City, UT
Feel free to climb on them, but PLEASE leave them in place! Oct 25, 2012
Durango, CO
There were 4 original developers that started back in the early '90s, myself, Steve "Booner " Price, Jay Pezbolt, and Terry Parrish.
Steve put up Cherub (Tim Kuss chopped it), In the Beginning, Wind of Change, Colorfest, and a really nice thin face left of Babel.
Jay put up Rozenkranz, Gildenstern, Gardening at Night, and Babel.
Terry put up Respecting the Law (crack), Free Tibet, and Still Waiting.
I bolted Cut Loose, Revelation, Red Sea, Genesis, Book of Life, Noah's Ark (aka Peer Pressure), Pulling Teeth, By Tor and the Cur Dog, Billy Manilly (unfinished, hangers stolen), Wicked Sensation, God of Thunder, Answer to the Master, The Temptation, One Summer's Eve, Close to the Edge, Charlie Brown's Christmas Tree, Cafe Cascade, The Red Snapper, and The Oaks.
Walking into the canyon, the walls were named Friendship Wall (small wall with 2 chopped routes, Cherub, and Cut Loose), Genesis Wall from Revelation to Noah's Ark Arete, Futurescape Wall (aka Roof Area) which is from Respecting the Law crack to the upper cave. Headbangers Wall (aka Free Tibet area) from By Tor and the Cur Dog down to Colorfest, Garden of Eden Wall from The Temptation (left of Colorfest) to Close to the Edge at pool. Across the river, that whole wall was called Restaurant Row.
There was one other dude named Jason who put up about 3-4 routes as well, and Tim Kuss put up a crack down by the waterfall. I think Track Team that started just left of Free Tibet, bolts and gear.
So there you have it, a small history lesson on Cascade Canyon. I visited recently, and there are many new routes, some lines we looked at back in the day, but they were super hard looking, so we left them alone for better climbers than ourselves. So good job, people! I just hope that CC doesn't get over bolted where the routes become contrived, it's a beautiful place. Dec 15, 2016
On the Road...Looking for a…
Salt Lake City, UT
thanks so much for the comment. I think it's really important to understand and respect the history of a climbing area. Thank you for your hard work, I have enjoyed your routes for years.
I share your concern with Cascade becoming over bolted. Recently some serious squeeze jobs have been added, and it would be a damn shame if this continues. To anyone considering adding a new route to the canyon, please keep the lines independent. If your potential route is within arm's length to an existing line, please DO NOT bolt it!
It would be great if an administrator would change the names of the walls to what the original developers had given them. Dec 19, 2016
North Mitten
Durango CO
Boulder, CO
Follow the trail downhill. At the only fork, I recall, I went LEFT (not right, as suggested in the "Getting There" description above), which leads downhill and allows you to wrap back to the base of the cliffs. If you were to instead go right at this fork, it will go back uphill and eventually take you back to the road. Oct 10, 2021
Missouri
Durango, CO
Saint Augustine, FL