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Routes in Genesis Wall (Canyon Entrance)

30 and Dirty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baby Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Book of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Genesis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gildenstern S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
In the Beginning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Into the Great Wide Open S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Sea, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Revelation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Drew Hoch
Page Views: 540 total, 10/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on May 6, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is great climbing on the best chunk of rock in the canyon. It is hands down the best route on the Entrance Wall! Climb perfect blue/grey rock on sidepulls and fat pinches with maybe only 2-3 down-pulling holds on the entire route. The climbing is powerful and engaging from the bottom to the top.

It should be noted that there was an abandoned line of studs (bolts with the hangers taken off) a few feet to the left. The studs were pounded in, and the line was redirected a few feet to the right, keeping it on the steepest and best part of the wall.

Location

This is the furthest left route on the wall.

Protection

5 bolts plus fixed anchors.

Photos

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s.price   PS,CO
Nice ascent. Those studs were left from a pair of routes put in by Jay Petzbolt in the early '90s called Gildenstern & Rosencrantz. These routes never really caught on, and I am glad to see something new. Love the new development. May 26, 2013
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.12a
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.12a
Drew isn't even thirty yet. The name should probably be "Dirty and Almost Thirty". May 6, 2013