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Routes in Headbanger's Wall

Boys of Summer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
By Tor & the Cur Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devotion To The Lotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eagle Block T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Everyone Poops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Free Tibet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammer and a Carrot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Haunted House, The V12 8A+ PG13
Night Moves S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Reverse Cowgirl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades of Gray Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Some People Poop S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Summer of '69 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Twerk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitted as Track Team) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: ECD, gentle Ben Griffin
Page Views: 2,525 total, 39/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on Sep 12, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is fantastic! It is a gently overhanging, power endurance, fun factory where finger strength and fancy footwork are the key to maximum funning!

Start with a few bolts of enjoyably .11- climbing. Get an almost jug at the third bolt, and prepare thyself as the angle steepens and the holds get significantly more fun (smaller) and no rest till you clip the anchors!

The grade is a rough estimate, I really have no idea. It's definitely 5th class though, that's for sure.

As for the name, it really works best in a sentence. For example; "Hey man, have you ever tried reverse cowgirl?" "Are you kidding? It's one of my favorites, I do it all the time." "Yeah, it feels sooooo good if you go all the way to the top!"

Location

This is on the gently overhanging wall between "Track Team" and "Eagle Block". Start off a boulder 10 feet right of the Track Team arete.

Protection

7 bolts plus anchors. Extended draws on bolts 3 and 5 are very helpful on redpoint attempts.

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Flubbing funning description, Erik! Jul 21, 2013
William Mondragon  
  5.12c
You guys are too funny. Have another beer... & what a great route, everything flows really nicely. Definitely my favorite in the canyon. Props, Erik! Jun 3, 2013
durango dream
  5.12c
durango dream  
  5.12c
Long live Durango dream ... he has come, gone, and will never return to the chossy ego driven climbing of Durango.... I think I will start rafting. I hear the Animas is off the chains. Jun 2, 2013
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
 
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
 
Why would you compare a V13 boulder problem to a 12c route? Who cares about The Mandala. There is no significance to the two rock climbs. I hear Durango Dream is a little tight on the belay. Jun 1, 2013
durango dream
  5.12c
durango dream  
  5.12c
Not sure who Drew is... but that comment is a little rash, don't you think. What if the crux hold of the Mandala broke just a little, no matter how strong one might be, would it not deem the climb a bit harder based on theory alone? I hear it was a pretty good hold for the right hand to catch a quick breath and move into the next harder section. Just saying maybe you should be more open minded about others opinions :) May 31, 2013
Erik Durgin  
 
That particular move is a little harder, but it doesn't affect the overall difficulty or quality of the route. If one little move makes that big of a difference, it probably means you weren't strong enough to climb the route in the first place, Drew. May 30, 2013
durango dream
  5.12c
durango dream  
  5.12c
So I hear a key hold broke off this route? Is it any harder? Why was it not reinforced in the first place? May 29, 2013
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
 
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
 
This is not a first ascent. I have been top roping under that roof for like 30 years, and I am only 29. First ascent, my wonder balls! Sep 15, 2012
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
Haha, you said penis! Sep 13, 2012
Erik Durgin  
 
You got it, Chris! I've been looking at the line for a long time as wel,l and it really exceeded my expectations. It only took me about 20 minutes to clean after I bolted it! Sep 12, 2012
Erik,

This made me laugh. Nice work.

- And on the route, too. This is the face just right of Track Team with some triangular features at mid-height? If so, this was the next line on my list to equip before I left town. Sweet. Sep 12, 2012
Harold
Bayfield, CO
Harold   Bayfield, CO
Nice, since you can't write about penises. Sep 12, 2012