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Routes in Headbanger's Wall

Boys of Summer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
By Tor & the Cur Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devotion To The Lotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eagle Block T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Everyone Poops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Free Tibet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammer and a Carrot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Haunted House, The V12 8A+ PG13
Night Moves S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Reverse Cowgirl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades of Gray Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Some People Poop S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Summer of '69 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Twerk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitted as Track Team) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Erik Durgin
Page Views: 768 total, 13/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on Dec 5, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an interesting new route that requires a lot of technical trickery (knee-bars, heel-toe cams, thumbdercling-gastons, etc.) and serious bouldering strength. There are four well-defined boulder problems, all with their own unique flavor, separated by good rests.

The route climbs a lovely, gently overhanging white face capped by a big, steep, blocky bulge. Right off the ground (or cheater stone, I should say) the opening sequence is straight cryptic. From there, technical and pumpy face climbing will bring you to a good rest below the final bulge. Try to get it all back, because the final boulder problem is very physical and gymnastic, ending with a desperate deadpoint to the "jug" you clip the anchors from. Adding to the excitement, it is almost impossible to clip the last bolt on redpoint, forcing you to skip it and go for the anchors!

I would have loved to take this route to the top of the cliff, but unfortunately the upper headwall is covered in a thick layer of mud, forcing me to end it at the lip of the bulge.

Location

About 100 feet down canyon from the prominent Track Team arete is a clean, white face capped by a big, orange/brown bulge. Everyone Poops climbs this face above the cave like feature that makes the boulder problem "Haunted House".

Protection

6 bolts plus anchors. There is a mandatory stick clip for the high first bolt! Knee pads are a must.

Photos

Nolan Robertson
  5.13a
Nolan Robertson  
  5.13a
The last move of this climb feels like the climax of an action movie. Really fun boulder problem on top of a good 5.12. Jul 17, 2016
Erik Durgin  
 
Ben, you just gotta duct tape your kneepads on better!! After a week of practice climbing in Joe's you'll crush it! Nov 22, 2013
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.13a
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.13a
This route is really hard. I'll give it 13a, but compare this to El Rancho and tell me what you think. Nov 18, 2013