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Routes in Headbanger's Wall

Boys of Summer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
By Tor & the Cur Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devotion To The Lotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eagle Block T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Everyone Poops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Free Tibet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammer and a Carrot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Haunted House, The V12 8A+ PG13
Night Moves S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Reverse Cowgirl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades of Gray Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Some People Poop S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Summer of '69 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Twerk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitted as Track Team) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Terry Parrish
Page Views: 161 total, 2/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Sep 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

There might not be an 11d move on Free Tibet, but there aren't any 10d moves either...at least for the first 40 feet! The climbing is sustained, technical, and excellent. In my opinion, this route might be the best 5.11 sport climb in Durango.

A highball first clip might necessitate a stick clip or, in our case, a very long stick and some climbing tape. Take care getting to the first bolt, some of the hardest moves on the route are below the clip.

Catch a must needed rest at the halfway point and be patient for the jug run that awaits the last bit. A varied, awesome route!

Location

Climbs the right of two major arete formations. Start below a steep roof and then stays right of the arete.

Protection

7 bolts.

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