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Routes in Headbanger's Wall

Boys of Summer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
By Tor & the Cur Dog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Devotion To The Lotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eagle Block T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Everyone Poops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Free Tibet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammer and a Carrot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Haunted House, The V12 8A+ PG13
Night Moves S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Reverse Cowgirl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades of Gray S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Some People Poop S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Summer of '69 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Twerk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitted as Track Team) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Patz, 2018
Page Views: 925 total · 12/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Jun 21, 2012 with updates from Mike Patz
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Private Property Details


The name refers to the color of the rock and to the ethics used to establish the line. For full disclosure, there's a good bit of glue on this one to keep just enough holds on the wall to make in climbable. Nevertheless, the route climbs very well with multiple cruxes on cool angles of rock. Bolted in 2012, this route was an open project until Mike Patz sent in July of 2018.

Start a good bit right of the first bolt on some left-facing flakes, and climb up into and out of the dihedral to a conspicuous hole at bolt four. Make strange tension moves on non-holds out of the hole and into the first crux on the white face to establish below the steep prow. From the chockstone jug (you'll see what I mean), embark on a long stretch of difficult sidepulls and slopers out the prow, finishing with a Hail Mary deadpoint to a flat hold on the headwall. Continue up the headwall on better holds to the anchor.

This route requires very dry conditions as a key crimp in the first crux seeps most of the year. Otherwise, it is a proud and difficulty line.


Shades of Gray begins about 30 feet left of the Track Team arete. The line is just left of the mungy project with a faded red tag and two draws in wet rock, but one begins climbing almost directly below the first bolt of that line.


11 bolts and anchors. There is a mandatory stick clip for the high first bolt. Several other bolts are placed in somewhat inconvenient locations to maximize rock quality, so pre-hung longer draws will help in spots. One will almost certainly skip at least one bolt on the upper prow.


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Choss limestone + glue = AWESOME!
This route looks so good, Chris! Can't wait to get spanked on it! Jun 23, 2012
I never said it was choss. In fact, most of the pitch is on really good vertical to radically steep rock. Certainly, there's a bit of dust and lichen that still need to be cleaned up, but most of the rock is quite solid. The glue, which is on exactly four holds, two of them small and two larger features, is only slightly obtrusive and somewhat ethically shady (hence the name). Jun 24, 2012
David Heerschap
Lander, WY
David Heerschap   Lander, WY
My Sika definitely brings all the boys to the yard (not mine on this though)...yee haw - can't wait to give this a burn! Thanks for bolting and cleaning this, Chris! Jun 25, 2012
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
Chris loves to glue choss together. That route looks sick. Cascade is awesome. Are you sure you don't want to rename the route shades of spank me? Jul 23, 2012
Mike Patz
Mike Patz  
Great work, Chris! Actually a super fun route! I sent today. Possibly FFA? I went left at the first crux before where the wall gets really steep, opting for the bullet blue stone rather than the easier white choss out right. I highly recommend the route be done this way. Never noticed a wet hold. Probably same grade overall if you go right, but left is slightly harder and better quality approach to the crux.

I'm pretty sure I only grabbed 2 holds reinforced by glue, and only one seemed totally necessary. Maybe some glue broke, or maybe it was such an excellent job that I couldn't tell.

A left kneepad is useful.

Speculative grade - 13c+... maybe harder without left kneebars but maybe easier with more kneebar.... Jul 23, 2018

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