Chocolate is Better Than Sex 

FA:  Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, May 1988 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 209 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 25, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall

Description 

This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the Thin Wall's east side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as starting in a "double crack" in the center of the right half of the wall. Climb the double crack system upward to a merge 1/3 of just to the beginning of a bulge up top, then continue up on the single crack. The jams are good, although the rock is a little poor.The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.9+, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is overgraded and this felt fair at 5.8.

Protection 

Cams and Tricams. The crack system here is flaring and rounded and has plenty of shedding crystals. Set pro carefully. This is not 'S' for an experienced leader, but is not a good lead for a beginner.