"Pancho" ticking another 5.11/5.10d at age 13. Pho...
Description
Approach Thin Wall's east side. Toward the left (south) end of the east side, near the wall's highest point, you will see a broad 3-foot roof with two tiers split by a crack. The right side of this roof is higher than the left. Congratulations climbs a system of small and insecure face holds and a seam to reach the crack at the roof, then charges through the roof on better holds. Turning the roof and establishing yourself above it is the fun and gymnastic crux.
Beta Hint- I actually got my foot stuck so badly over my head there that it was difficult to remove once past the crux sequence.
The route is rated 5.11a in the Vogel guide, but I felt that the route was more on par with the smattering of 5.10c routes I did than with the other 5.11a routes. Like most of the lines at Thin Wall, this one can be TR'd by setting an anchor from above. Odds are that one will be already there when you arrive if it is a weekend. I have only bummed a TR on this, and have not led it.
Protection
Figuring out what sparse protection might fit should not be a terrible task to undertake. The crux in and of itself, at the roof, can be protected by cams.
I've done easier 11A's: Iron Cross, Valhalla. So I have to hang with 11A.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 9, 2004 rating: 5.10d
Valhalla and Iron Cross were easier? I do need to be deliberate in thinking of a pure crux move, and the fact I was leading the aforementioned, but......I think it's misleading to compare those routes ot this. Putting an intermediate TR guy (person) on Calc and then having he or she lead or follow either one of those two is IMHO a bit of a difference. Let's rememebr the early days, when we did our first 10a and thought "I can do 10a" and went to Yosemite or Woodson and got spanked. Bottom line, fun and easy to set up, but soft for the rating.
EDIT: Rereading this in '07, it is obvious that some stuff (description or comments) have been edited or deleted. ;-(
By Chris Miller Administrator May 4, 2006 rating: 5.11a R
Nice thin face down low to cruxy roof moves higher up. A bit harder (and more technical) than Child's Play.
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