Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Gillian in the upper (crux) finger crack. Photogra...
Description
From the bulletin board at Hidden Valley Campground, turn around and walk approximately 50' west to the base of the route.
Jam up hand crack for 10', then angle diagonally up and right. About two-thirds of the way up the route, step left and continue up vertical finger crack (crux) to top. Gear belay. Descent: Single rope rappel from 2-bolt anchor 20' right of the top of the climb.
Safety note: This climb has been the site of some serious accidents, so be sure to protect yourself and the second with adequate protection along the diagonal crack.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Nov 4, 2002
I love this climb. There is absolutely no reason to have an accident on this one - there is great gear every 2 feet if you want it. This would be an excellent beginner lead.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 6, 2002
Of the 2 major accidents I've had some knowledge of on this route, one was due to the leader failing to adequately protect the lower diagonal section, so when he fell, he ended up swinging way left and smacked his head (no helmet). The other doesn't really count, in that the party was actually on Orphan (5.9) and thought they were climbing Toe Jam (the B&W photo in Vogel's guide kind of cuts off the route). On a "Near Miss" note, I have witnessed parties attempting to toprope the route off of the rap anchors which lie 20' to the right of the route. Really bad idea, as a fall would result in a phenomenal swing to the right.
Maybe one move of 5.7 stepping out of the crack on to the little slab. A #.75 cam protects the exit from the crack quite well. All in all, a friendly climb that will leave a smile on your face.
The route has great gear up until the vertical crack section at the top. A small cam (yellow alien worked for me) can be placed midway through the crack, and its probably the best gear in this section, IMO. A few nut options exist, but I wouldn't say they're the best. However, even if you were to fall here, all the awesome gear below the vertical crack will keep you safe.
By mmurduff From: Foothill Ranch, CA Oct 30, 2005 rating: 5.7
Great gear up the end where I almost always place a small (pink) tri-cam before ending the climb. A must do!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 4, 2006 rating: 5.7+
I remember leading this route many years ago, and found the (my) nut placements to be a bit wanting on the top crack, but since it was well below my leading ability, I paid little attention to it. Probably best for a leader at the 5.9 grade to feel comfortable about this climb.
The Old Woman - East Face
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