Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Gillian in the upper (crux) finger crack. Photogra...
Description
From the bulletin board at Hidden Valley Campground, turn around and walk approximately 50' west to the base of the route.
Jam up hand crack for 10', then angle diagonally up and right. About two-thirds of the way up the route, step left and continue up vertical finger crack (crux) to top.
Belay on gear, NOT the bolted anchor to the right.
Descent: Single rope rappel from 2-bolt anchor 20' right of the top of the climb.
Safety Note: I have witnessed multiple parties attempting to toprope the route off of the rap anchors which lie 20' to the right of the route. Really bad idea, as a fall would result in a phenomenal swing to the right.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Nov 4, 2002
I love this climb. There is absolutely no reason to have an accident on this one - there is great gear every 2 feet if you want it. This would be an excellent beginner lead.
Maybe one move of 5.7 stepping out of the crack on to the little slab. A #.75 cam protects the exit from the crack quite well. All in all, a friendly climb that will leave a smile on your face.
The route has great gear up until the vertical crack section at the top. A small cam (yellow alien worked for me) can be placed midway through the crack, and its probably the best gear in this section, IMO. A few nut options exist, but I wouldn't say they're the best. However, even if you were to fall here, all the awesome gear below the vertical crack will keep you safe.
By mmurduff From: Foothill Ranch, CA Oct 30, 2005 rating: 5.7
Great gear up the end where I almost always place a small (pink) tri-cam before ending the climb. A must do!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 4, 2006 rating: 5.7+
I remember leading this route many years ago, and found the (my) nut placements to be a bit wanting on the top crack, but since it was well below my leading ability, I paid little attention to it. Probably best for a leader at the 5.9 grade to feel comfortable about this climb.
Hands down one of the best climbs for beginning leaders. Protection is fairly decent, yet small. Good crack for practicing stopper placements. Climb is sort of a mix of slab and crack climbing. The last bit of the climb is the crux. You hit a vertical crack with limited protection options. I think I got a small cam in there somewhere at the start. Then there is a couple of slabby moves to the top.
The top is where the climb is really awesome for beginner trad climbers. It has everything you could want for setting up an awesome anchor off gear. Perfect horizontal crack that will take some small to medium sized cams, and bomber stopper placements. If you really want the extra back up, throw some slings around the juggy type erosional features just above the crack.
Rap off the rings on the bolts to the climbers right, or easier and somewhat safe, drop the rope into the two gated hooks.
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.6
Easy route with a 1 move crux. Good for breaking into the grade. Make sure to belay off gear above the climb(as in the beta above) and not the rap chains or you'll set you second up for a nasty pendulum that the entire campground can see.
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