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The Old Woman - East Face
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Toe Jam 

Toe Jam 

5.7

   

FA: Kenn Smith and Dick Webster, 1959
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 1,384 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on May 9, 2002


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Gillian in the upper (crux) finger crack.
Photogra...



Description 

From the bulletin board at Hidden Valley Campground, turn around and walk approximately 50' west to the base of the route.

Jam up hand crack for 10', then angle diagonally up and right. About two-thirds of the way up the route, step left and continue up vertical finger crack (crux) to top. Gear belay. Descent: Single rope rappel from 2-bolt anchor 20' right of the top of the climb.

Safety note: This climb has been the site of some serious accidents, so be sure to protect yourself and the second with adequate protection along the diagonal crack.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3".



Add Photo Photos of Toe Jam
The Old Woman - East Face

BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - East Face

Christa Cline on the angling crack halfway up the pitch.

Christa Cline on the angling crack halfway up the ...

Sketchette nearing the crux of Toe Jam.

Sketchette nearing the crux of Toe Jam.

Young Blitzo at grips with "Toe Jam". 1977.<br />Photo by Charleen Serniuk.

Young Blitzo at grips with "Toe Jam". 1977.
Photo ...


Toe Jam from the belay

BETA PHOTO: Toe Jam from the belay

Me climbing Toe Jam with a beautiful J-tree sunset

Me climbing Toe Jam with a beautiful J-tree sunset

hand jam?

hand jam?

Halloween 05

Halloween 05

Josh moving up the diagonal flake. Like it!

Josh moving up the diagonal flake. Like it!

Free Soloist

Free Soloist


Add Comment Comments on Toe Jam
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Nov 4, 2002

I love this climb. There is absolutely no reason to have an accident on this one - there is great gear every 2 feet if you want it. This would be an excellent beginner lead.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 6, 2002

Of the 2 major accidents I've had some knowledge of on this route, one was due to the leader failing to adequately protect the lower diagonal section, so when he fell, he ended up swinging way left and smacked his head (no helmet). The other doesn't really count, in that the party was actually on Orphan (5.9) and thought they were climbing Toe Jam (the B&W photo in Vogel's guide kind of cuts off the route). On a "Near Miss" note, I have witnessed parties attempting to toprope the route off of the rap anchors which lie 20' to the right of the route. Really bad idea, as a fall would result in a phenomenal swing to the right.

By Randy
Mar 10, 2004
rating: 5.7

FA: Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff & Gary Hemming, 11/52.

By Matt Chan
May 10, 2004

Maybe one move of 5.7 stepping out of the crack on to the little slab. A #.75 cam protects the exit from the crack quite well. All in all, a friendly climb that will leave a smile on your face.

By Kellen Holt
Dec 22, 2004

The route has great gear up until the vertical crack section at the top. A small cam (yellow alien worked for me) can be placed midway through the crack, and its probably the best gear in this section, IMO. A few nut options exist, but I wouldn't say they're the best. However, even if you were to fall here, all the awesome gear below the vertical crack will keep you safe.

By mmurduff
From: Foothill Ranch, CA
Oct 30, 2005
rating: 5.7

Great gear up the end where I almost always place a small (pink) tri-cam before ending the climb. A must do!

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jun 4, 2006
rating: 5.7+

I remember leading this route many years ago, and found the (my) nut placements to be a bit wanting on the top crack, but since it was well below my leading ability, I paid little attention to it. Probably best for a leader at the 5.9 grade to feel comfortable about this climb.

By Blitzo
Sep 29, 2006

Pretty fun 5.7.