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 ADVANCED
Aggro Gully
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White Wedding S 

Aggro Monkey 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Martin Atkinson, May 1988
Page Views: 3,724
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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A climber powering through the crux of Aggro Monke...
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

After conquering The Quickening it's time to move on down to the serious stuff on this wall, and Aggro Monkey is the next logical step. It's steep, it has some big lockoffs with desperate stabs to pockets, and it's always got quickdraws hanging enticingly.

This is what the Aggro Wall is all about-- pumpy, thuggish, and powerful moves with gorgeous position on good rock.


Location 

Aggro Wall, right side of the Aggro Gully (looking up)


Protection 

Quickdraws



Photos of Aggro Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
The move up off the slab to the underclings is pretty burly.
The move up off the slab to the underclings is pre...
Ian Caldwell Photo
Ian Caldwell Photo
The Crux <br />Ian Caldwell photo
The Crux
Ian Caldwell photo
Brian Mosbaugh photo
Brian Mosbaugh photo
About to take a fall
About to take a fall
Aggro Monkey <br />Brian Mosbaugh photo
Aggro Monkey
Brian Mosbaug...
Getting established above the roof on Aggro Monkey. <br />
Getting established above the roof on Aggro Monkey...
Getting that classic shot.
Getting that classic shot.
Comments on Aggro Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Definitely a hard route for me, being only 5'3". Many of the moves above the roof were large dead points, or small dynos. Pulling the roof was a bit easier though, being able to put my feet right on the lip.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2008

A number of taller folks think this route is 13a. I've heard a good argument in favor of the 13b grade for short peeps, considering that all of the numerous rests are really good (jugs for hands AND feet) if you are tall enough to reach between them, but for short folks all of the rests are good hands with bad feet, making them much more taxing. I'm not tall enough to test this theory.

Its probably the most accessible 13b at Smith, but still 13b, IMO. Substantially harder than Oxygen, Times Up & Darkness. Slightly easier than Slit Your Wrist. My towering 5'7" frame had to do an awful lot of deadpoints/dynos, so I'm not so sure that's a height thing. I was pretty weak on lockoffs at the time, and my technique was pretty lousy.

FWIW, I've heard a certain feisty local can't do all the moves on this, despite having redpointed White Wedding. Not sure how tall this person is, but probably around 5'0.

Look at the bright side, assuming your fingers are proportional to your height, you probably have a huge crimping advantage over tall people. Larger folks can't get their middle finger in the mono on Scene of the Crime. It goes both ways.

By ferrells
Jan 25, 2009

hi everyone - i havent been up on this route yet, and mostly because of the "plant hangers for bolts". i guess i just dont understand why, if we decided to irreversibly maul the rock with plant hangers, we dont want to put in real bolts at those spots instead. anybody willing to fill me in with the local explanation, if there is one? anybody have any plans to change this? is it a serious tradition to have fake bolts on this route? thanks, Sean

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 25, 2009

This route has modern hardware. Check the publication date on your "plant hanger" source.

By ----
Jan 28, 2009

I was on the route this past Fall. I remember one suspect bolt. It is more of a dogging bolt than anything. It comes right below what I consider to be the redpoint crux. It was handy for me to clip the bolt and yard through it the first time to get a top rope up. I don't know which bolt it is, but it is about 2/3 of the way up the wall and it is pretty obvious. I just wouldn't want to trust the bolt to take too many whippers. Skipping the bolt and taking a whipper results in a clean fall.

Other than that I think there might be a few similar bolts at the beginning of the route. Not quite sure on that one, but it should not be an issue traversing through this 5.9 section.

By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Sep 27, 2010

I'd believe it- if you're 5'0" I can't see any way you could get up to those underclings in the roof and that's not even the crux!

By kimmo
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I'd concur with monomaniac's assessment: being 6'1", the route felt 13a to me, with the hardest move being the deadpoint near the top off the sloping cube (meaning: I don't agree with the photo caption above labeled "The Crux"; for me, both the roof pull low and the cube move high were much harder).