Taken for Granite
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 81 votes
Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | Jeff Sewell, Larry Stone & Dave Bruckman, January 1979 |
Page Views: | 14,829 total · 53/month |
Shared By: | AJ on Dec 31, 2001 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the obvious left-arching crack splitting Rattlesnake Buttress. Start with a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block. From here, stay left in the beautiful hand/finger crack.
If you haven't been here before, expect the approach to take roughly an hour. Go up Rattlesnake Wash further than you might initially think you need to. There are some cairns on the approach, but they are easy to miss and may only be found as you descend from the cliff!
Depending how good you are at snooping around, there are a few descent options. You can do a two-rope rap from ratty slings, a 60m+ rap from a boulder on the back of the cliff or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.
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