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The Cleo Amphitheater
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Barndoor T,TR 
Better When Dry T,TR 
Between the Queens TR 
Big Roof TR 
Colostomy T,TR 
Curved Wall T,TR 
Hang Dog T 
Jack of Spades T,TR 
King's Throne T,TR 
King's Valet, The T,TR 
Mickey Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mum T,TR 
Missing Link T 
Pinko T,TR 
Plank, The TR 
Queen's Face T,TR 
Queen's Throne T,TR 
Queens Clam, The T 
Sluggo TR 
Throne Room T,TR 
Tilted Tower T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 

Queen's Throne 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 10,224
Submitted By: Stephen D. Schaefgen on Mar 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (152)
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Photo by Russ Miller. Matthew Zahalka on Queen's ...


This one is easy, but it is a whole lot of fun. It is about as perfect for leading as climbs get at Devil's Lake and swallows gear so it is good for the begginner leader. Climb the left facing corner to the right of King's Throne. There are two corners there so climb the one on the right. It is a very vertical crack and ends to the right of the tall rock spike atop the climb.


Standard Rack.

Photos of Queen's Throne Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Vince barefoot.
Vince barefoot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stew and Keller soloing the Throne.
Stew and Keller soloing the Throne.
Rock Climbing Photo: Queens Throne
Queens Throne
Rock Climbing Photo: Good climb but too short.
Good climb but too short.
Rock Climbing Photo: really fun and easy crack
really fun and easy crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying at the bottom of the Throne.
Belaying at the bottom of the Throne.
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't miss out the fun and thrill standing on top ...
Don't miss out the fun and thrill standing on top ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Queen's Throne
BETA PHOTO: Queen's Throne
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice easy protection.
BETA PHOTO: Nice easy protection.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gabe loving the Throne.
Gabe loving the Throne.
Rock Climbing Photo: Throne Room (38), Queen's Throne (41), Between the...
BETA PHOTO: Throne Room (38), Queen's Throne (41), Between the...
Rock Climbing Photo: An unknown climber leading Queen's Throne.
An unknown climber leading Queen's Throne.

Comments on Queen's Throne Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 20, 2017
By Anonymous
Mar 18, 2002

An outstanding climb. Too much fun, it's like an amusement park ride. Perfect crack, perfect feet, perfect pro.Makes you want to quit your job and get really GOOD at crack climbing.
By Anonymous
May 23, 2002

Try sticking exclusively to the crack on the right ie. don't use the wall on the left. I thought it made for a nice variation.
By Ryan
Aug 9, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Awesome route. After completely messing up the simple approach on Friday (8/5/05), we found the Queen's Throne just begging to be climbed. It is interesting to note that the main crack begins at about 1" and widens to about 4" at the top, thus making use of all sizes of bigger gear. There are lots of ledges (as previously noted), but you still need to focus somewhat on staying balanced. I began with a .75 Camalot and used almost every bigger one in my rack. 1 #1, 2 #2's, 1 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #5. I also placed one big hex. Small nuts/cams aren't really needed if you have the bigger cams. Ok, I threaded it up, but had a blast doing so. The #5 I placed 3 times (I pulled it the first 2 because the wide crack at the top looked like it needed it). I anchored a TR (you'll want to do it more than once!) with a long sling around the pillar and a nut and cam in nearby cracks.

This climb is way fun and highly recommended. There is shade most of the way up which is quite appreciated.
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 11, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great lead for beginners. Also, like the comment above from Anonymous, stick (feet & hands) only to the crack and avoid the wall to your left and the climb definitely becomes a 5.5 jam crack. If you do this, like Birch Tree Crack (5.8), the climb is excellent preparation for the Durrance Crack (P2) of the Durrance route on Devil's Tower.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 18, 2008

This climb is great. Whether you can climb hard or easy, it is a fun crack climb and a great lead.
By Josiah
From: rapid city, SD
May 4, 2009

i did the variation. fun route
By Adam.IA.climber
From: Cedar Rapis
Jul 23, 2011

Very cool climb! Wife and I were able to climb successfully without prior crack climbing skills knowledge! Recommend to everyone!
By Seth Webster
May 31, 2015

This has been my favorite route in Devil's Lake. Such a fun climb. I liked it even better than Brinton's Crack (gasp!).
By Seth Jones
From: New Lenox, IL
Sep 21, 2015

Super fun route to lead on passive gear. 70s style!!! Can sew it up pretty well with nuts and big hexes.
By John Wanner
Jul 2, 2016
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

This is probably the best route of its grade at Devil's Lake, if not the best lead there, period. It's one of those climbs you wish were 600 feet long, not 60.
By brifo781
Aug 20, 2017

Any info on the semi-fixed #3 that showed up on the route? I tried to loose it, as did the group after us, but neither succeeded!!

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