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Governor Dick Park (aka Mount Gretna)

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45 Area 
Adjustor Boulder, The 
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Upper Matrix 

Governor Dick Park (aka Mount Gretna) Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.2373, -76.4558 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,311
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Rock Jock, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Greg Sudlow on Apr 28, 2010  with updates from Mervin Choun
Forecast:
Tonight

25°
Saturday

33° | 23°
Sunday

34° | 32°
Monday

45° | 29°
Tuesday

39° | 30°
Wednesday

38° | 18°
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Mount Gretna's diabase texture...mmm. delicious. d...

Description 

Mount Gretna offers excellent bouldering inside Governor Dick’s Nature Preserve. Composed of groups of diabase boulders strewn throughout a dense forest, the area can be tricky to navigate without a guide or guidebook but once mastered it takes just minutes to reach the nearest boulders. A great place to train and run bouldering circuits. Fall and spring are the best times to visit. Summer greets you with humidity, deer ticks, flies and dense underbrush.

Check the Governor Dick Bouldering on Facebook for the latest.

Getting There 

From the PA Turnpike take Exit 266 (Lebanon/Lancaster) and turn Right after toll booths onto PA 72 (Lebanon Road). Travel approximately 2 miles then turn Right onto Cider Press Road. Continue to Stop sign and turn Right onto Pinch Road. Follow Pinch Road into nature preserve and park at Clarence Schock education center on Right just after State Game Lands sign.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

126 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',43],['2 Stars',56],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',24],['V2-3',43],['V4-5',29],['V6-7',19],['V8-9',11],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Governor Dick Park (aka Mount Gretna)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Governor Dick Park (aka Mount Gretna):
Serenity Crack   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   Prow Area
Talking to Myself   V1 5     Boulder, 15'   Shamoo Area
Posion Ivy   V1 5     Boulder, 20'   Colflesh Area
Porcelain   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Upper Matrix
Help Meat   V3+ 6A+     Boulder, 10'   Shamoo Area
Crimptonite   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Otherlands : Rollercoaster
Smiley Face    V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Smiley Area
Astroboy   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 20'   Prow Area
Bodysnap   V4 6B     Boulder   Colflesh Area
Fabulous   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   45 Area
Colflesh Direct   V5- 6C     Boulder, 15'   Colflesh Area
Spring Chicken   V5 6C     Boulder, 18'   The Matrix Area
Shamoo   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Shamoo Area
Paula   V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   Smiley Area
Bashista Yo Sista   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Shamoo Area
Reunion   V5 6C     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Upper Matrix
Needle to the Vein   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Upper Matrix
Bodysnap Sit   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Colflesh Area
Year of the Dragon   V6 7A     Boulder, 8'   Upper Matrix
Islander   V7-8 7B     Boulder   Prow Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Governor Dick Park (aka Mount Gretna)

Featured Route For Governor Dick Park (aka Mount Gretna)
Rock Climbing Photo: The route

Balance or Power V6 7A  PA : South Central PA : ... : Shamoo Area
Balance or Power is one of Dr. Torretti's top ten contributions to Mt. Gretna, and that is saying a lot. He has put up many of the best problems-especially the technical ones- (like 50-100) in this main area and at the surrounding satellite areas. The climb begins sitting or crouching with hands on a large hold on the left end of the boulder. Some people will do a kind of standing start but with hands still on the hold. For full value, start sitting. Mantel this hold and reach up with the l...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Governor Dick Park (aka Mount Gretna) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Governor Dick Park pamphlet from 2012
BETA PHOTO: Governor Dick Park pamphlet from 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Governor Dick Park pamphlet from 2012
BETA PHOTO: Governor Dick Park pamphlet from 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The Wave original finish (move left to arete) V2. ...
The Wave original finish (move left to arete) V2. ...

Comments on Governor Dick Park (aka Mount Gretna) Add Comment
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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 23, 2011
Due to the Governor Dick Preserve being surrounded by State Game Lands, huge herds of deer are frequently seen in the area, where they are protected from hunting. I contracted Lyme disease in 2001 after picking up a deer tick after a day of climbing here. I also know of at least two other people who suffered it that same year or the next, so check yourself after every visit.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 4, 2014
Is there a guidebook in print for Gretna?
By Sam Sweigart
From: Philadelphia, PA
Sep 16, 2016
A new guidebook has been released last week. I know for sure you can get a copy at the Governor Dick Environmental Center for $30.00. I believe a few local gyms have copies for sale as well.