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Routes in Upper Matrix

Green Marble Arete, The V0+ 4+
Green Marble, The V2 5+
Needle to the Vein V5 6C
Particle Man V1 5
Porcelain V3 6A
Reunion V5 6C
Shroom Star V2 5+
Year of the Dragon V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: Joel
Page Views: 2,861 total, 34/month
Shared By: skinny legs and all on Feb 1, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Year of the Dragon is a bit of an anomaly for Mt. Gretna. It climbs a slightly overhanging face on, gasp, actual holds! Plus, the sequence is not cryptic.

Start sitting on two crimps. Backstep and work up solid, small crimps to the obvious, beckoning sloping pinch. This hold is one of the best in all of Mt. Gretna. Slap out left around the slight corner to a sidepull. Keep it together and squeeze the right arete to topout.

I always felt that it helped to be tall for this problem. I could never keep my feet on while moving from the pinch, while I watched Ernie have no problem with it over and over. I consider this a benchmark problem for V6 at Mt. Gretna. Of course, that is assuming optimal conditions. The pinch will feel impossible to hang onto in the summer. There is an excellent video of this problem on the 2001 film Hard Gret.

Location

Walk 100 meters past the upper and lower matrix. Year of the Dragon will be on your right just off the trail, and the problem will face your back. The boulder is downhill of the large Green Marble boulder.

Protection

Single pad.
dbick
  V6+
dbick  
  V6+
Tough problem to grade. When I did it it felt easy, but other times feels impossible. Definitely need good conditions to send. Apr 3, 2015
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
FA was Joel, Chet named it. Nov 12, 2014