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Minnesota Gopher 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Hand & Brian Parsons, 3/18/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,411
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Mar 18, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: A close up of the crux overhang. Use a long draw o...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climbs the pleasant face and large roof left of Fat Lipped Gofur. Big holds make the roof not too hard. Clipping the crux bolt over the roof is easiest if you purposefully Z-clip, then unclip the lower bolt. Use a mid-length draw on the bolt in the roof to reduce drag. This was named for my alma mater.

Location 

Begin 20 feet left of Fat Lipped Gofur. Scramble 30 feet up easy rock to first bolt.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Minnesota Gopher Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Parsons below the roof on Minnesota Gopher.
Brian Parsons below the roof on Minnesota Gopher.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is where I went to school.
This is where I went to school.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Parsons at the crux.
Brian Parsons at the crux.

Comments on Minnesota Gopher Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I think this is slightly easier than "Fat Lipped Gofur" to the right. I think this has better jug holds. Both routes are good, but I don't agree with the given ratings.
By L Kap
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 31, 2016

Hideous, absolutely crippling rope drag to clip the bolt after you pull the roof, if you don't do as suggested in the route description and unclip the bolt under the roof and/or use long slings on the roof bolts. Do as suggested. Don't be like me.
By Chip Loomis
Dec 4, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Also, put a runner on the last bolt on the slab before roof begins. It makes for a smooth and juggy climb over the roof.

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