Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Alan Prehmus
Page Views: 9,194 total · 135/month
Shared By: Alan Prehmus on Dec 3, 2014 with improvements by L Kap
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Optional P0. Start in a clean reddish inside corner 70 feet. below most of the other routes. Push up to the top of the corner, clip the second bolt and exit the corner right. The little roof above is 5.8-, but can be avoided to the left. Easy climbing leads to the traverse ledge where most of the other climbs on Other Critters start.

P1. Start up the shoulder along or right of the shallow crack. Follow bolts up through steeper rock to an alcove. Climb the left side face, or up the back of the alcove. Exiting the alcove is the crux (5.7). Continue to the belay at the 2 bolt anchor.

P2. Follow the bolts up the easy slabs (5.5) to a second anchor.P3. Scramble 20 feet up and left into the corner where the rock is least steep. To stay at 5.7, avoid the Dance Hornpipes bolts above/slightly right of the belay. Climb up and right to get out from under the overhang and onto the beautiful easy headwall. Step right away from the corner that is the Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't variation. Climb the face heading towards the chain anchors. Clip a chain, then step right to the belay anchors.

P3 "Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't" alternate third pitch. Start slightly to the right from the anchor, and use the two bolts right of YDD's first two. Cross YDD at the 3 ft. ledge, then climb the giant, right-facing corner. Just before the corner deteriorates, move up & left onto the left wall. A full length sling here will reduce rope drag. Achieve the stance. Do the dance. It's exposed! Finish up through horizontally featured section (5.8) to the top. You'll need to pull all the way over the lip to reach the trad-style double bolt anchor.A new rappel anchor has been installed to climber's left (west) of the summit block. This is a much safer option than the scramble to reach the P3 anchors of Yellow Dog Dingo. The new anchor will land you at the P2 anchors of Yellow Dog Dingo; finish with the regular Yellow Dog Dingo rappel route. You won't be able to see if there's anyone at the P2 anchors while you're on the summit so yell loudly before you throw your rope.

Note that the placard signage by the last bolt of the route points to the old, still-existing, inconvenient trad-style anchor bolts on the summit block that you can't rap from, but can still use to bring up your follower. Alternately, you can walk off the top via the dirty, loose, thorn-filled gully to the west of the summit, between Safari and Live Action. The gully is not fun and has some exposed moves. Not recommended in poor weather but might be your best option if YDD is super crowded. Any pair of pitches can be combined. For P2 & P3 rope drag might be an issue.

Location

Yellow Dog Dingo starts 15 feet right of the 7 foot boulder blocking the west end of the ramp that forms the base of the area. It is 20 feet left of Labby.

Protection

Bolts: 8 for P1, 4 for P2, 8 for P3.

Photos