Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Alan Prehmus
Page Views: 5,586 total · 114/month
Shared By: Alan Prehmus on Dec 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

82 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


Optional P0. Start in a clean reddish inside corner 70 feet. below most of the other routes. Push up to the top of the corner, clip the second bolt and exit the corner right. The little roof above is 5.8-, but can be avoided to the left. Easy climbing leads to the traverse ledge where most of the other climbs on Other Critters start.

P1. Start up the shoulder along or right of the shallow crack. Follow bolts up through steeper rock to an alcove. Climb the left side face, or up the back of the alcove. Exiting the alcove is the crux (5.7). Continue to the belay at the 2 bolt anchor.

P2. Follow the bolts up the easy slabs (5.5) to a second anchor.

P3. Scramble 20 feet up and left into the corner where the rock is least steep. To stay at 5.7, avoid the Dance Hornpipes bolts above/slightly right of the belay. Climb up and right to get out from under the overhang and onto the beautiful easy headwall. Step right away from the corner that is the Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't variation. Climb the face heading towards the chain anchors. Clip a chain, then step right to the belay anchors.

P3 "Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't" alternate third pitch. Start slightly to the right from the anchor, and use the two bolts right of YDD's first two. Cross YDD at the 3 ft. ledge, then climb the giant, right-facing corner. Just before the corner deteriorates, move up & left onto the left wall. A full length sling here will reduce rope drag. Achieve the stance. Do the dance. It's exposed! Finish up through horizontally featured section (5.8) to the top. YouÂ’ll need to pull all the way over the lip to reach the trad-style double bolt anchor. Bring your partner up, then use the Yellow Dog Dingo rap or walk down.

Any pair of pitches can be combined. For P2 & P3 rope drag might be an issue.


Yellow Dog Dingo starts 15 feet right of the 7 foot boulder blocking the west end of the ramp that forms the base of the area. It is 20 feet left of Labby.


Bolts: 8 for P1, 4 for P2, 8 for P3.
Jon Sinclair
Lafayette, CO
Jon Sinclair   Lafayette, CO
The first two pitches are good climbing and generously bolted, but the Hornpipe variation at the top is the payoff. Very fun. Be cautious about reaching the anchors to rap off. Dec 9, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
This is a fun climb, and it is bolted very well. It seemed more like 5.6 than 5.7 to me. There are great holds in all the steep sections. Dec 20, 2014
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
I was annoyed you can't quite link any of the rappels with one rope, you have to do all 3 (if you want the ends to reach), but with two 70s, you can reach all the way down from the top.... Jan 18, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The Horn Pipe variation is certainly better than the other last pitch. Not too hard, but great exposure. Jan 18, 2015
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
P1 is 5.5.
P2 is 5.4.
The Horn Pipes variation is 5.7 and the best pitch. Nice exposure. Would use long slings on the first 2-3 bolts as well. Why no animal name for this pitch?
There is also an old piton on P1. Jan 31, 2015
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
Alan Prehmus   littleton, co
Why no critter name for Dance Hornpipes? The route name came before the area name. Yellow Dog Dingo, and most of my other route names at Other Critters, come from Kipling's "Just So Stories". Dance Hornpipes comes from there, too. The Other Critters name came later. Feb 1, 2015
Jason Platt  
I would give the Horn Pipes variation of the last pitch 3 stars easy, but the rest of the route isn't much to write home about. I also wouldn't totally count the difficulty out for the variation as well. There are 2 exposed sections high on the route that are easily 5.8. If you are here, make the trip up to this pitch. It'll be worth it. Mar 22, 2015
Brad Gone  
I agree with J Sinclair about Hornpipe.. use caution while getting to the Yellow Dog anchors. Also, sling the first 3-4 bolts as long as you can. Apr 30, 2015
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
How are you supposed to get off the anchors from the Horn Pipes variation? The rock looks really loose between it and the anchor of the standard P3. Or any info on which way the walk down is? We didn't want to risk either so just left a locker up there to rap from. Feb 29, 2016
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
Alan Prehmus   littleton, co
To get from the top of Dance Horn Pipes to the Yellow Dog Dingo rap anchors, go up onto the hill side, then around right & above the large tree. Approach the anchors from the east. There is a walking ledge on that side with 2 bolts on the ground to protect the reach to the chains.

The walk-off goes up and left to the grove of ponderosa pines then diagonally down/west into the gully. There are a series of cairns marking the route.

Rappelling from Dance Horn Pipes is "not" recommended due to the sharp rock edges all around the top of the route. Mar 1, 2016
Jake Web
Denver, CO
Jake Web   Denver, CO
Did the variation, it allows for a really nice topout. You hike around and rappel from rappell anchors next to the regular finish. You can't miss it.

It's a great climb, but unfortunately it will get crowded now due to being in the new book. Get it while ya can, before it's too much! Feb 19, 2018