Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Other Critters

'Dillo Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alan's Roof S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bicolored Python Rock Snake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Br'er Bear S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Br'er Fox S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Br'er Rabbit S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calvin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clyde S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curious George Goes Climbing S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant's Child S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lipped Gofur S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Armadillo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gooey Kablooie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hamster Huey S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hobbes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kermit's Corners T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Labby S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Minnesota Gopher S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Old Man Kangaroo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tortoise Scute S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Dog Dingo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: bolted by Alan Prehmus. FA?
Page Views: 3,011 total, 83/month
Shared By: Alan Prehmus on Dec 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


50 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1. Cruise the low angle start past the traverse. Move up & right through the steeper bit (5.7). Head up to the slot where buckets await. Continue up through easy climbing to the belay (2 bolts).

P2. Head straight up the beautiful easy (5.5) tortoise shell slab to the belay at the overhang.

P3. Walk 60 feet West to the base of the third pitch. It works through the easiest part of the right side of the headwall (5.7-). While the start may appear steep, there are lots of positive features. Follow the bolts to the shared anchor with Yellow Dog Dingo.

It's also easy to walk to the base of the third pitch of Yellow Dog or Dance Hornpipes.

P1 & 2 can be combined with a 60 m rope.

Location

Start 25 feet below and left of the entrance to the 3rd class access ledge.

Protection

Bolts: 10 for P1, 6 for P2, 8 for P3.
Fun route. Saw a fixed piton - 1970s era. Probably means the FA was done a long time ago.... Apr 25, 2017
Matt Bentley
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Matt Bentley   Boulder, CO
  5.6
This is a great multipitch for beginners. The only detraction for me was the disconnect between pitches 2-3. The ledge is huge, so you don't have to worry much about safety, but it was a slight inconvenience to walk 20m left to the last pitch. That took it from 3 to 2 stars for me. Still, I thought the route was great and really enjoyed the diversity of the climb. Definitely worth checking out!

Also, if you have enough draws for it, I would highly recommend joining P1 and P2. P2 is quite short. Mar 31, 2017
Carolyn Eustic
Denver
 
Carolyn Eustic   Denver
 
Great multi-pitch climb for beginners and beginner leads who have done a few others first. Dec 2, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
I did the first pitch again, and it is very easy, barely 5.7. This is certainly a good route for new leaders. Aug 24, 2015
Link the first two pitches. P2 is very easy. Nice, quick, morning multi-pitch. Jul 11, 2015
Brad Gone  
 
This is an excellent beginner multi-pitch route. Nice belay stations and generous bolting. Tops out with some nice height. Was tempted to solo it.

Thanks for putting it up! Apr 30, 2015
Snow Lily
Golden
 
Snow Lily   Golden
 
Very enjoyable route. The 3 pitches makes it fun and a confidence builder for folks getting back into climbing. Can't wait for more routes from Alan
Feb 2, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
This is a fun route and is not difficult for a 5.7. The route gets you high up on the side of the canyon. This would be a good route for new 5.7 leaders. It is safely bolted and not very sustained. Dec 21, 2014