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(7) Jungle Cliff
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Amazon Woman T 
Closed Project 1 S 
Closed Project 2 S 
Crime Wave T,TR 
Ecocide S 
Enter The Void S 
Firestorm S 
Forced March S 
Gorilla Love Affair S 
Green Scare S 
Heart of Darkness S 
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Open Project--Jungle Boogie S 
Open Project--Sowerby Roofs. S 
Open Project--The Groove. S 
Oracle S 
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Tarzan S 
Total Liberation S 
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Welcome to the Jungle S 
Wretched Love Affair S 
Wretched of the Earth, The S 

Enter The Void 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Sean da Costa
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Sean da Costa on Nov 21, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Enter The Void from the top of Green Scare

Description 

This route starts about 100 feet off the ground and heads up a slab over the enormous roof on the upper left side of the Jungle Cliff. The route is characterized by an extremely airy start to technical finesse moves on side-pulls and crimps up an 80 degree slab. The crux features thin, delicate moves with marginal feet. Though this route is relatively short, it feels pretty adventurous and gripping for the location and grade.

Location 

The route starts about 100' up on the top of the Wretched of the Earth Extension and heads up the slab that caps the major roof on the left side of the wall. To get down, rap or lower from the top anchors to the belay anchor. From there, a 70 meter rope rap will get you to the gound. I don't believe a 60 meter rope will make it, FYI.

NOTE: Though there are bolts leading to the start of the route via WotE extension, that extension has not yet been cleaned up and freed. Extreme caution is advised if thinking about accessing the route via that approach. As of the posting of this page, there is a fixed line to the belay anchor which can be used to access the climb. However, PLEASE DON'T REMOVE ANY FIXED LINES AND GEAR. These lines are up there for developing other routes in the vicinity and are people's personal property. Thanks in advance.

Protection 

Two bolt belay anchor to four bolts finishing with another two bolt anchor with rap rings. All bolts are 3/8" stainless steel.


Photos of Enter The Void Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie rapping over Enter The Void.
Charlie rapping over Enter The Void.
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter The Void from the ground zoomed out.
BETA PHOTO: Enter The Void from the ground zoomed out.
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie at the belay anchor of Enter The Void. The...
Charlie at the belay anchor of Enter The Void. The...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter The Void from the ground.
BETA PHOTO: Enter The Void from the ground.

Comments on Enter The Void Add Comment
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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Nov 21, 2015

So the original way to reach the upper pitches was to go to the WotE upper anchor, and then traverse under the roof to the right on the old bolts that are there, and then up, which would be the same to reach the belay anchors for Enter the Void. Supposedly this traverse went at 5.10+. I haven't tried it, so I don't know for sure.
By Charlie Egan
Nov 22, 2015

The traverse that you mention is what Sean is referring to as the WotE extension.

I went for the lead on it, but bailed and jugged the fixed line when things got sketchy. The traverse currently has lots of loose rock on it, and some of it would be in a perfect spot to slice your rope. It was mellow until the final 'slot' before the anchor, then lots of holds started breaking. It's possible that a new sequence will emerge when we take the choss off, or we might have to approach the route from another direction. We will see.
By Charlie Egan
Nov 22, 2015

However it is approached, this pitch offers technical moves and excellent position. One the of the best at the grade in the area, for sure.

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