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Super Natural
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 4 from 8
votes
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Super Natural T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.74872, -119.57264 |
| FA: | Jake Squier and Camden Clements, Aug 2023 |
| Page Views: | 2,379 total · 73/month |
| Shared By: | Jake Squier on Nov 8, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Super Natural is a 200+ft splitter #3’s crack that begins 3 pitches up super slide. The crack was born in the summer of 2023. It started out as wee finger crack and slowly grew to 3’s to the significant concern of park staff (and interest of many news outlets). It seems to have stopped growing, but may still be active. Climb at your own risk! The area was closed for a while but as of 2026 the area is open again to climbers. From the pitch 3 anchor of super slide, head up and left to the obvious splitter crack and follow it to near its end then head right 15ft on a slabby ramp to the bolted anchor on top of super slide. Use a 70 to lead it in one pitch.
I’ll leave the old 2023 route description for now for some interesting historical context:
On August 20th, 2023 I was guiding Super Slide and while rappelling down, my ropes got stuck in a crack. As I went down to retrieve them, I couldnt believe what I saw— A brand new perfect finger crack shot 200ft down the cliff! Having guided the route 20+ times I was sure that the crack wasn’t there even just a few weeks prior. That evening, I emailed Greg Stock, the park geologist, who said he would inspect the crack when he got back from Colorado and advised us to be cautious climbing in the area.
So the next day we went back to climb it. Seeing that it is just a tiny crack in a massive buttress of rock, we justified our decision to go for it. We also saw it is a good opportunity to clean loose rock off of Super Slide while there was a warning sign at the base and people were unlikely to be up there. Rain thwarted our first mission, but after work on the evening of Aug 22, we went up, cleaned the crack and climbed it.
Super Natural: From the pitch 3 anchor of super slide, go up 15-20 ft and then traverse left to the incredible super natural splitter. There are a few different options of where you can traverse. When we climbed it in late august ‘23, the crack went from fingers, to thin hands to ring locks, back to fingers, then tips, and then the crack petered out. I placed a purple metolius and then ran it out 20ft to the top of superslide on featured 5.7 slab. The pitch is a full 200ft and probably best to lead it on a 70m rope. When Greg Stock returned, he went up with a climbing ranger to inspect it and they were alarmed to find that the crack was actively cracking and growing as they were up there. He also discovered another new crack on the left side of the buttress growing more diagonally. The area was officially closed and Greg has been closely monitoring the crack ever since.
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