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South Early Winters Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in South Early Winters Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Backseat Driver T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
	Dolphin Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Free Mojo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Mojo Rising T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1+
	Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Nothing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
	Passenger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rubbernecker, The T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Southwest Couloir Mod. Snow
	Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	7,807 ft
GPS:	48.51216, -120.65513 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	164,679 total · 867/month
Shared By:	blakeherrington on Sep 18, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted Details

Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.

Description

South Early Winters Spire is the highest summit of the Liberty Bell Group. Just South of the 'North Spire', rock is excellent granite and there are routes on all sides. The South Arete, SW Couloir, and SW Rib are very popular. With an easy approach up the Blue Lake Trail, or from the hairpin turn on Hwy 20, SEWS features many very accessible routes.

FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis. The summit is at 7807'.

Getting There

Blue Lake Trail - ~1 hour of hiking on the trail leads to a meadow and opening on the NW side of the spire, with a wooden "Liberty Bell trail 727" sign. Leave the maintained trail here, and head up and left on obvious climber paths. The SEWS is the rightmost of the obvious peaks, but the trail to it splits from the Liberty Bell trail fairly high up (around 7000').

Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Early Winters Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

Mod. Snow 19 ● Southwest Couloir Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 247 ● South Arete Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 489 ● Southwest Rib Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 65 ● Boving Roofs Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 138 ● Direct East Buttress Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 140 ● The Hitchhiker Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 26 ● Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 13 ● Free Mojo Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 41 ● The Passenger Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 19 ● Southern Man Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c 4 ● Backseat Driver Trad, Alpine 7 pitches