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Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Liberty Bell Group
> S Early Winters Spire
Southwest Couloir
Mod. Snow
Avg: 2.2 from 19
votes
Routes in South Early Winters Spire
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Backseat Driver T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Dolphin Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Free Mojo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mojo Rising T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1+ |
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Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nothing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Passenger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rubbernecker, The T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Southwest Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m) |
| FA: | K. Adam, R. Bedayn, W. K. Davis - July 1937 |
| Page Views: | 3,194 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Apr 21, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
A broad, gentle snow gully that narrows as it goes and can feel like a bigger route despite being easily accessible and not committing.
Begin in the obvious couloir 100' below the South Arete. Ideally the large boulder near the base will be covered with snow. Make your way up the wide section at 25-30 degrees. Continue up the couloir to the fork and take the right side where things steepen (40-50 degrees) and narrow. Continue up past a constriction and follow the hallway of rock walls to the small saddle about 50' below the summit. A low 5th class move will get you to the summit.
Descend by down-climbing or rappelling the couloir.
The route is best when filled with snow, so look to get on it within a month of the North Cascades Highway opening.
Begin in the obvious couloir 100' below the South Arete. Ideally the large boulder near the base will be covered with snow. Make your way up the wide section at 25-30 degrees. Continue up the couloir to the fork and take the right side where things steepen (40-50 degrees) and narrow. Continue up past a constriction and follow the hallway of rock walls to the small saddle about 50' below the summit. A low 5th class move will get you to the summit.
Descend by down-climbing or rappelling the couloir.
The route is best when filled with snow, so look to get on it within a month of the North Cascades Highway opening.
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