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Routes in South Early Winters Spire

Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Passenger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southwest Couloir
Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Allen, Falley, and Kauffman 2008
Page Views: 1,111 total, 38/month
Shared By: wayne wallace on Jul 3, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This interesting route shares the first 4-5 pitches of Direct East Butt of SEWS. It busts out left of the bolt ladder pitch and starts off funky 10a. The quality gets better when it kicks into the headwall pitches. Sustained thin cracks start out in a corner then stays sustained for a couple of pitches, and the belays are vague and not yet fixed. Stephs great report http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/washingtonpass#sewssm

Photos

Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
Just as Wayne: cool there are so many great routes here. I found the crux as hard as or a little harder than any single move on the Passenger. Did them back to back days so that not sure if that helped or hurt the ability to be objective.

Wrote a few thoughts here: chasingmastery.com/the-pass….

Be prepared to use your whole rack on the pitch 11+ pitch (rating in Cascade Rock). I felt it was was super sustained, except for where it backs off just after the crux. A super strong duo could blast up to this pitch very quickly to give it a burn. Aug 12, 2016
wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Southern Man takes a bold line up one of the steeper cliffs on SEWS. The cruxes are of the thin crack/corner variety and the rock is sharp if not jagged. It has solid rock and good pro. The belays are not obvious or fixed so bring cordelettes etc. How about that South Early for delivering so many quality climbs!! Did a write up on my amateur website Jul 25, 2015