Backseat Driver

Overview

This route follows a striking line up some of the steepest rock on the South Face of South Early Winter Spire. It weaves together an elegant series of cracks, shallow corners, and powerful left-facing laybacks in immaculate rock. A few improbable and fun boulders provide key passage between the left-facing features. The route is well protected with a combination of gear and bolts, and all bolted anchors.

This route was established top-down over the course of several weeks in early summer 2021 by Nathan Hadley, Andy Wyatt, and Matt Carroll. Nathan and Andy made the first redpoint ascent, with Nathan leading every pitch.

Route

P1, 5.12 (25m) — Start up an easy crack towards a small tree below a left facing corner with bolts. Layback up to a ledge below a roof. This pitch was previously bolted, and we believe established by Bryan Burdo (working to confirm). Rack: 3 draws, singles from tips to #1.

P2, 5.12 (15m) — Roof Pitch. Climb up to a juggy fang and then use a scoop to make a tenuous transition into the crack under the roof. The difficulty of this boulder may vary between 12- and 12+ depending on height.  Make a powerful move to pull over the roof at a bolt. Undercling back left to a small stance above the roof. Rack: 3 draws, a few finger-sized pieces and a hand-size piece.

P3, 5.13- (15m) — Dike Mantle. Follow a thin rail out to an arete and up to a dike. Levitate over the dike and finish with some burly and exciting laybacking up to a ledge. Rack: 6 draws.

P4, 5.13 (25m) — Power Corner. Cartwheel right across the slab to an imposing corner. Climb through a sequency V8 boulder and then through another crux transferring cracks to the right. Follow an incredible finger crack to a stance in a corner. Rack: 4 draws, singles from tips to .5.

P5, 5.12+ (20m) — Enduro Corner Start. Power gaston through cracks to the right, gaining the start of a long corner. Climb through tricky and insecure laybacking to a tiny ledge. It would be cool to combine this pitch with the next (we didn’t on the FA). Rack: 7 draws.

P6, 5.12 (35m) — Enduro Corner Finish. Continue up the beautiful corner with fun, challenging fingerlocks. The hardest climbing is in the first half of the pitch. Finish on a large ledge below a tree. Rack: 2 draws, doubles from tips to .75, single #1 & #2. Optional extra fingers if you want. 

P7, 5.10+ (42m) — Diagonal up to the right through cracks, joining the direct finish of The Passenger. Climb through steep jugs to a rap anchor then move left into the only right facing corner on the route. Belay from an anchor below the lip or from trees over the lip. Rack: Singles from tips to #2, doubles from .3 to .5, and some alpine draws.

Descent

Rap with a 70m rope (the last 40+ meter pitch has an intermediate rap anchor) or scramble down the South Arete. 

Accessing the top is possible via the South Arete. Before crossing the whale fin feature go down and right, then lower off a tree a few feet to bolts at the lip or go directly into a bolt over the lip.

The route begins just a couple minutes down from the col (and well left of the Passenger). From the col, stay on easy high ledges (no scrambling) to arrive at the base and a single bolt. There is one single pitch climb (likely a Burdo line) that starts with bolted face climbing just to the left of this route.

8 draws, 2 alpine draws, doubles from tips to .75, single #1 & #2, nuts, and optional extra fingers if you like. All bolted anchors.