Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 800 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Allen, Tom Smith, Joel Kauffman 2006
Page Views: 253 total · 40/month
Shared By: Michael T on Jun 3, 2019
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

As far as I am aware this route has still yet to be freed. If it has, feel free to update with the free ratings.

P1:~105' 11b A0; Climb the bolted face to to the left of the NW face P1. Runout 5.6 takes you to the first bolt. Bolt spacing would make this pitch hard to aid or french free, being a solid 10+ climber is recommended. This pitch can be climbed as an alpine single pitch with a 60m if you use the first chains.

If continuing up the route, french free or step in slings up the bolt and piton ladder to the next set of anchors.

P2: 5.6 C1+; Aid up the thin very flaring seam past one bolt and up to one last move of 5.6 to the anchor. This pitch takes tricky small cams and nuts.

P3: ~85' 10a C1 or 10+?: From the right side of the ledge climb a short wide crack before cutting back left into an alcove with a steep corner crack above a sloping ledge. Aid up the seam. The book calls this section C1R due to the possibility of cratering into the ledge if you blow a piece, but its easy aid and shouldn't be a problem. Climb out of your ladders and follow the crack until you can use a foot rail to traverse hard left to the anchor.

This pitch would likely go free as a tricky stemming boulder problem above a ledge, it just needs some good brushing.

P4: ~75' 5.8 "Skywalker Traverse"; We tension traversed and lowered out onto skywalker ledge making this pitch 5.8 A0 but it doesn't look like a downclimb would be that hard. Climb the obvious ramp leading up and left to below the obvious double corner. Hand and finger sized pieces for the belay.

P5: ~175' 5.10a; Climb an awkward 10a seam right off the belay into the corner. Carefully climb up and around the massive scary totally detached block and into a fun 5.9 corner finger crack up to the next belay. Hand and finger sized pieces for the belay.

P6: 5.7; Climb up the blocky terrain and though some trees up to the SW rib. Be careful not to climb too far for rope drag reasons.

P7-9: up to 5.4; Simul climb or pitch out the rest of the route on the well travelled SW rib.

Location

Obvious bolt line 20ft downhill from chockstone route to the left of P1 of the NW face route. 

Protection

2x BD .2-2 or equivalent. Some offset cams in the smaller range are nice for P2. 1 set nuts plus extra small brassies. Minimum 11 draws, more is nice to have. Can rap first 3 pitches w/ 60m rope.

Photos