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4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b 77 ● Northwest Ridge Aug 24, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. No gear. Rope to rap the final block and bring up second if needed. Gorgeous spot for sunrise views, especially when Bugaboo and Snowpatch start to light up. Trad, Alpine N America > … 1 2 > Bugaboos > Eastpost Spire
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 24 ● North Spire - SW Ridge Aug 21, 2022 · 6 pitches. Follow. Followed most. Scrambled unroped for beginning and final pitch and walked portion in the middle. Pitch 3 I think we took the right variation and made this much harder. Climbed with Pat Monteith. Trad, Alpine 7 pitches N America > … 1 2 > Western Chilliw… > Nesakwatch Spires
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 6 ● South Spire - North Ridge (AD-) Aug 20, 2022 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Scrambled and climbed unroped for several pitches. Roped up for 3+. Roped up with Pat Monteith. Climbed with Shane Yargeau and Keithe Towers. Trad, Alpine 6 pitches N America > … 1 2 > Western Chilliw… > Nesakwatch Spires
5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V-easy 3 WI8 M16+ A0 Steep Snow 89 ● Toilet Seat Aug 12, 2022 · Attempt. Aid, Boulder, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine N America > … 1 2 > Bugaboos > Pigeon Spire
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 390 ● West Ridge Aug 12, 2022 · Solo. final rap (near bottom) is in a weird spot, bit airy to downclimb to, but nothing crazy. Trad, Alpine N America > … 1 2 > Bugaboos > Pigeon Spire
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 28 ● The Boulevard Jul 17, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. Nice little climb. Good warm-down if it starts getting hot and you'd like to fit in one more. Two quick and straight forward raps and two straight forward pitches. First pitch, although lower grade is still very fun movement with a small bit of exposed feeling. Good fun. Sport 2 pitches N America > … 1 2 3 > Waterworld > Gilligan's Island
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 32 ● Pirates of the Waterworld Jul 15, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. No gear required. Beautiful climb with some decent exposure, but good holds. Some loose sections. Traversey, with face climbing and some seem fun. Second pitch a bit more exposed, but seems on point for the grade. Final 10b section is quite soft and could probably be avoided if one needed to. Sport 3 pitches N America > … 1 2 3 > Waterworld > Voyage Cliff
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 77 ● The Goat Jul 8, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. Climb in pretty solid shape. Able to avoid kicking rocks on parties below. Stations littered with pebbles, and top out scramble has many large rocks that are ready to be knocked off kilter and over the edge, so treaded lightly here. Beautiful climb, only a few bolts had some minor rock damage. One broken and one spinner. Although skipped a bunch each pitch. Thanks to the bolters! Sport 19 pitches N America > … 1 2 3 > Marble Canyon Rock > Mid Wall
5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a 16 ● Uto Peak Southwest Ridge Jul 18, 2021 · Solo. Took small rack & rope in case. Required none, and would reduce amount if did again, bringing mainly rappel gear. Excellent route, mainly 4th class, with only a few loose sections, generally great rock as found in the area. A few shorter 5th class moves. Could be done with approach or supple mountain boots. Rock shoes for a of added security. We descended the NW ridge, with some fun climbing (stick to the ridge as much as possible). The descent couloir is heinous and has some solid blocks ready to go, wear a helmet and wait for parties below to exit - this exit would be better with a bit more snow early season (Late Jun - mid July). NW Ridge does have two sets of recent rap rings on the upper section to by pass bit of harder (but fun) down climbing. Trad, Alpine N America > … 1 2 > Rogers Pass > Mt Sir Donald
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 10 ● Sisyphus (220) May 31, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. fun climb. Trusted an old piton, that was exhilarating ! Trad 5 pitches N America > … 1 2 3 4 > Apron > Left/Central Main Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 41 ● Where's the Remote? May 23, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Great route, easy climbing with some good exposure. First two pitches easily linked. 7th pitch (5.10 has some bad rock 3/4's up the route, tread carefully here to not concuss your belayer!) . Beautiful views. Easy raps down. Really enjoyed this. Sport 8 pitches N America > … 1 2 3 4 > Apron > Left/Central Main Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 2 ● Loon Slab May 22, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. All three climbs are quite good. The 5.7 is easy climbing, with a hollow sections that's now shed some rock about mid root. The bolt here (4th?) is about 5 or 6 inches above a very hollow pocket, but still seems stable. 5.9 has a high 1st bolt, but a very fun climb. 5.10+? is also quite fun with good rock & bolts. Sport N America > … 1 2 3 4 > Apron > Left/Central Main Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 839 ● Klahanie Crack Apr 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Beautiful crack. Probably used too much gear. single rack fine with maybe extra smaller piece here and there. Trad N America > … 1 2 > Shannon Falls > Shannon Falls Wall

● Northwest Ridge

N America > … 1 2 > Bugaboos > Eastpost Spire

4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine

Aug 24, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. No gear. Rope to rap the final block and bring up second if needed. Gorgeous spot for sunrise views, especially when Bugaboo and Snowpatch start to light up.

● North Spire - SW Ridge

N America > … 1 2 > Western Chilliw… > Nesakwatch Spires

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches

Aug 21, 2022 · 6 pitches. Follow. Followed most. Scrambled unroped for beginning and final pitch and walked portion in the middle. Pitch 3 I think we took the right variation and made this much harder. Climbed with Pat Monteith.

● South Spire - North Ridge (…

N America > … 1 2 > Western Chilliw… > Nesakwatch Spires

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches

Aug 20, 2022 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Scrambled and climbed unroped for several pitches. Roped up for 3+. Roped up with Pat Monteith. Climbed with Shane Yargeau and Keithe Towers.

● Toilet Seat

N America > … 1 2 > Bugaboos > Pigeon Spire

5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V-easy 3 WI8 M16+ A0 Steep Snow Aid, Boulder, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine

Aug 12, 2022 · Attempt.

● West Ridge

N America > … 1 2 > Bugaboos > Pigeon Spire

390

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine

Aug 12, 2022 · Solo. final rap (near bottom) is in a weird spot, bit airy to downclimb to, but nothing crazy.

● The Boulevard

N America > … 1 2 3 > Waterworld > Gilligan's Island

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches

Jul 17, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. Nice little climb. Good warm-down if it starts getting hot and you'd like to fit in one more. Two quick and straight forward raps and two straight forward pitches. First pitch, although lower grade is still very fun movement with a small bit of exposed feeling. Good fun.

● Pirates of the Waterworld

N America > … 1 2 3 > Waterworld > Voyage Cliff

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches

Jul 15, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. No gear required. Beautiful climb with some decent exposure, but good holds. Some loose sections. Traversey, with face climbing and some seem fun. Second pitch a bit more exposed, but seems on point for the grade. Final 10b section is quite soft and could probably be avoided if one needed to.

● The Goat

N America > … 1 2 3 > Marble Canyon Rock > Mid Wall

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 19 pitches

Jul 8, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. Climb in pretty solid shape. Able to avoid kicking rocks on parties below. Stations littered with pebbles, and top out scramble has many large rocks that are ready to be knocked off kilter and over the edge, so treaded lightly here. Beautiful climb, only a few bolts had some minor rock damage. One broken and one spinner. Although skipped a bunch each pitch. Thanks to the bolters!

● Uto Peak Southwest Ridge

N America > … 1 2 > Rogers Pass > Mt Sir Donald

5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a Trad, Alpine

Jul 18, 2021 · Solo. Took small rack & rope in case. Required none, and would reduce amount if did again, bringing mainly rappel gear. Excellent route, mainly 4th class, with only a few loose sections, generally great rock as found in the area. A few shorter 5th class moves. Could be done with approach or supple mountain boots. Rock shoes for a of added security. We descended the NW ridge, with some fun climbing (stick to the ridge as much as possible). The descent couloir is heinous and has some solid blocks ready to go, wear a helmet and wait for parties below to exit - this exit would be better with a bit more snow early season (Late Jun - mid July). NW Ridge does have two sets of recent rap rings on the upper section to by pass bit of harder (but fun) down climbing.

● Sisyphus (220)

N America > … 1 2 3 4 > Apron > Left/Central Main Wall

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 5 pitches

May 31, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. fun climb. Trusted an old piton, that was exhilarating !

● Where's the Remote?

N America > … 1 2 3 4 > Apron > Left/Central Main Wall

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 8 pitches

May 23, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Great route, easy climbing with some good exposure. First two pitches easily linked. 7th pitch (5.10 has some bad rock 3/4's up the route, tread carefully here to not concuss your belayer!) . Beautiful views. Easy raps down. Really enjoyed this.

● Loon Slab

N America > … 1 2 3 4 > Apron > Left/Central Main Wall

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

May 22, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. All three climbs are quite good. The 5.7 is easy climbing, with a hollow sections that's now shed some rock about mid root. The bolt here (4th?) is about 5 or 6 inches above a very hollow pocket, but still seems stable. 5.9 has a high 1st bolt, but a very fun climb. 5.10+? is also quite fun with good rock & bolts.

● Klahanie Crack

N America > … 1 2 > Shannon Falls > Shannon Falls Wall

839

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Apr 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Beautiful crack. Probably used too much gear. single rack fine with maybe extra smaller piece here and there.

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Chris M > Ticks Export CSV · RSS Feed of Ticks

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