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Routes in Pigeon Spire

Cooper-Kor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Toilet Seat V-easy 3 A0
West Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Description

The Pigeon Spire sits to the west of Snowpatch Spire dividing the Bugaboo and Vowell Glaciers. The classic West Ridge is by far the most popular route on the spire and the main descent for all other routes. The East face is the largest and most impressive side of the spire and easily viewable from the Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier.

Getting There

There are two approaches for the Pigeon Spire depending on your destination. For the North Face and the West Ridge take the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col to the Upper Vowell Glacier. For the South and East Faces take the Bugaboo Glacier West passing the South Face of Snowpatch along the way. Both approaches require glacier travel and can take one to two hours depending on the route your trying to get to.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pigeon Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3 A0
 3
Toilet Seat
Aid, Boulder, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 178
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 5
Cooper-Kor
Trad, Alpine 18 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Toilet Seat
 3
V-easy 3 A0 Aid, Boulder, Alpine
West Ridge
 178
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Cooper-Kor
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 18 pitches
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