Pigeon Spire Climbing
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
The Pigeon Spire sits to the west of Snowpatch Spire dividing the Bugaboo and Vowell Glaciers. The classic West Ridge is by far the most popular route on the spire and the main descent for all other routes. The East face is the largest and most impressive side of the spire and easily viewable from the Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier.
There are two approaches for the Pigeon Spire depending on your destination. For the North Face and the West Ridge take the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col to the Upper Vowell Glacier. For the South and East Faces take the Bugaboo Glacier West passing the South Face of Snowpatch along the way. Both approaches require glacier travel and can take one to two hours depending on the route your trying to get to.
Classic Climbing Routes at Pigeon Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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