Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Howe and Mike Down in the early 80s
Page Views: 240 total · 31/month
Shared By: Michael T on May 29, 2018 with updates from Dru B.
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Approach: From the basin walk over to the low 5th class chimneys either rope up there or scramble up to the base of P1.

P1 5.8ish: The obvious cracks containing a few fixed pieces including a fun rigid stem friend. Belay at the horizontal on the ledge.

P2 5.8: Traverse right along the ledge and up the short splitter finger crack, belay to the left before the left facing corner. Pitches 1 and 2 can probably be linked.

P3 5.8+: Drop down and climb the steep cracks until you can step right into the corner. Follow that up to a slab to either a wide 4”? flake, or a wide crack to its left. Belay either off the boulder horn or build an anchor in the corner.

P4 5.7ish: Scramble up to the splitter cracks, follow those and some slabby terrain up to the flat section of the ridge.

P5 4th ~100m: Simul or unrope and scramble to the base of the headwall cracks.

P6 5.8ish: Climb the perfect cracks up to more blocky terrain above, either build an anchor there or lower/down climb to the flat area below.

P7: low 5th loose blocks: carefully climb up the Jenga blocks to the summit.

Descent: The descent follows easy terrain down the standard S-ridge of the spire. In earlier season that route may be hazardous due to snow. There is a neglected rap route that weaves it's way down the south face which might be a better option conditions depending.

Protection

Rack: x2 BD.4-2, x1 3-4, Nuts, long slings.

Photos

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