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> Mid Wall
The Goat
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 64
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Routes in Mid Wall
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Dreamweaver (198) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Entrance Exam T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Goat, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rat Race (199) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rocky Roccoco (197) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Solitude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 2100 ft (636 m), 19 pitches |
| FA: | FAA: Danny O’Farrell, Jake Allen, FA: Danny O'Farrell, Jake Allen, Jason Thorne, Andrea Zemanek, Rob Cook and David Leveille- June 2018 |
| Page Views: | 19,971 total · 250/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Warne on Aug 30, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Danny O'Farrell, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Overnight Parking/Camping
Details
There have been reports of concerns of people parking overnight or camping on the gravel roadside pullouts along Highway 99. Please be aware that there is no overnight parking or camping allowed at these areas. Being an isolated area, there are a limited number of sites available at the only nearby campground, which likely has contributed to this. If you’re sleeping in your vehicle, the wonderful park operator, Birgit (pronounced: Beer-get), is happy to accommodate more people overnight in the day-use lots for the standard camping fee.
The Ministry of Transportation has the power to restrict parking along these roads entirely (including for day use), so please be sure to abide by their rules to ensure our continued access to this area.
The Ministry of Transportation has the power to restrict parking along these roads entirely (including for day use), so please be sure to abide by their rules to ensure our continued access to this area.
Description
- Please be aware that this is an alpine style of climbing similar to the Rockies, with loose rocks at belay stations
especially when topping out.
A great route in a beautiful setting with the added allure of being one of the longest alpine sport climbs in Canada. It has a short approach and a short descent considering the route length. The route faces south, so pick your days accordingly. Being a limestone route there is some loose rock but the climbing in the middle of the route is quite good. The route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope, but if finishing the route to the top there is no reason not to do the walk off.
Pitch 1 (5.5): 5 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 2 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 3: 60m Scramble up and slightly left, look for bolts near base of wall.
Pitch 4 (5.6): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 5 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 6 (5.5): 3 Bolts, 30m'
For 11a variation continue straight up, for 5.8 variation continue up and right in the small gully to separate anchor
Pitch 7 (5.11a): 9 Bolts, 25m Billy Goat Gruff Variation
Pitch 7 (5.8): 9 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 8 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 9 (5.6): 5 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 10 (5.8): 9 Bolts, 20m
Pitch 11 (5.9): 12 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 12 (5.9): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 13 (5.9): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 14 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 15 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 16 (5.7): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 17 (5.8): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 18 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 19: 60m 3/4 class scramble up and slightly left to a pine tree at the base of the wall above.
Descent: From the pine tree traverse left (NE) around until you see a large rock that looks like a 3m high pillar. Walk between the pillar and the wall and look around the corner to the right for a 2-bolt rappel anchor. A 20m rappel drops you into a gully that can be walked all the way to the highway, approx. 45-60mins from the top of the route. Bring boots (and gloves) for the unpleasant steep descent.
Location
The route is found on the wall to the left of the large gully system that splits the two walls. Park at a gravel pull out at the base of a dry creek bed, coordinates 50.849894, -121.711997 or 2.0km westbound from the Marble Canyon Provincial Park entrance. The trail starts beside the falling rock sign. Follow this dry creek bed up hill for approximately 15mins to where it meets the wall. The trail is generally well-marked with orange flagging tape.A nearby apron trail is marked with pink flagging tape. Be warned, if you use the eastern-most pullout and you start from the pink flagged apron trail at the road, your approach will be much more than 15 minutes, sufficiently convoluted, and generally less enjoyable.
Protection
All pitches are fully bolted and all anchors are two bolt anchors with rappel rings or maillons. Most pitches can be linked with a 60m rope, depending on your willingness for rope drag. However, the original topo only mentions following 60m link-ups:Pitch 1 & 2, can be linked with 60m ropePitch 4 & 5, can be linked with 60m ropePitch 10 & 11, can be linked with 60m ropeNote: You can start on Pitch 4 by hiking in from the left or from the right if approaching from the trail with pink flagging.
Photos
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