Avg: 3.3 from 16 votes
|Type:||Sport, 2100 ft, 19 pitches|
|FA:||Danny O’Farrell, Jake Allen, Jason Thorne, Andrea Zemanek, Rob Cook and David Leveille- June 2018|
|Page Views:||4,093 total · 296/month|
|Shared By:||Brad Warne on Aug 30, 2018|
- Please be aware that this is an alpine style of climbing similar to the Rockies, with loose rocks at belay stations
especially when topping out.
A great route in a beautiful setting with the added allure of being one of the longest alpine sport climbs in Canada. It has a short approach and a short descent considering the route length. The route faces south, so pick your days accordingly. Being a limestone route there is some loose rock but the climbing in the middle of the route is quite good. The route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope, but if finishing the route to the top there is no reason not to do the walk off.
Pitch 1 (5.5): 5 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 2 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 3: 60m Scramble up and slightly left, look for bolts near base of wall.
Pitch 4 (5.6): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 5 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 6 (5.5): 3 Bolts, 30m'
For 11a variation continue straight up, for 5.8 variation continue up and right in the small gully to separate anchor
Pitch 7 (5.11a): 9 Bolts, 25m Billy Goat Gruff Variation
Pitch 7 (5.8): 9 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 8 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 9 (5.6): 5 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 10 (5.8): 9 Bolts, 20m
Pitch 11 (5.9): 12 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 12 (5.9): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 13 (5.9): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 14 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 15 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 16 (5.7): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 17 (5.8): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 18 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 19: 60m 3/4 class scramble up and slightly left to a pine tree at the base of the wall above.
Descent: From the pine tree traverse left (NE) around until you see a large rock that looks like a 3m high pillar. Walk between the pillar and the wall and look around the corner to the right for a 2-bolt rappel anchor. A 20m rappel drops you into a gully that can be walked all the way to the highway, approx. 45-60mins from the top of the route. Bring boots (and gloves) for the unpleasant steep descent.