Type: Sport, 2100 ft (636 m), 19 pitches
FA: FAA: Danny O’Farrell, Jake Allen, FA: Danny O'Farrell, Jake Allen, Jason Thorne, Andrea Zemanek, Rob Cook and David Leveille- June 2018
Page Views: 19,206 total · 288/month
Shared By: Brad Warne on Aug 30, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Danny O'Farrell, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description Suggest change

  • Please be aware that this is an alpine style of climbing similar to the Rockies, with loose rocks at belay stations
and sometimes close to the route. Stay on route and avoid knocking loose rocks down if parties are below you,
especially when topping out.

A great route in a beautiful setting with the added allure of being one of the longest alpine sport climbs in Canada.  It has a short approach and a short descent considering the route length.  The route faces south, so pick your days accordingly.  Being a limestone route there is some loose rock but the climbing in the middle of the route is quite good.  The route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope, but if finishing the route to the top there is no reason not to do the walk off.

 Pitch 1 (5.5): 5 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 2 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 3: 60m Scramble up and slightly left, look for bolts near base of wall.
 Pitch 4 (5.6): 8 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 5 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 6 (5.5): 3 Bolts, 30m'
 For 11a variation continue straight up, for 5.8 variation continue up and right in the small gully to separate anchor
 Pitch 7 (5.11a): 9 Bolts, 25m Billy Goat Gruff Variation
 Pitch 7 (5.8): 9 Bolts, 25m
 Pitch 8 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
 Pitch 9 (5.6): 5 Bolts, 25m
 Pitch 10 (5.8): 9 Bolts, 20m
 Pitch 11 (5.9): 12 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 12 (5.9): 10 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 13 (5.9): 10 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 14 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 15 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
 Pitch 16 (5.7): 8 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 17 (5.8): 10 Bolts, 30m
 Pitch 18 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
 Pitch 19: 60m 3/4 class scramble up and slightly left to a pine tree at the base of the wall above.

Descent: From the pine tree traverse left (NE) around until you see a large rock that looks like a 3m high pillar.  Walk between the pillar and the wall and look around the corner to the right for a 2-bolt rappel anchor.  A 20m rappel drops you into a gully that can be walked all the way to the highway, approx. 45-60mins from the top of the route. Bring boots (and gloves) for the unpleasant steep descent.

Location Suggest change

The route is found on the wall to the left of the large gully system that splits the two walls.  Park at a gravel pull out at the base of a dry creek bed, coordinates 50.849894, -121.711997 or 2.0km westbound from the Marble Canyon Provincial Park entrance. The trail starts beside the falling rock sign. Follow this dry creek bed up hill for approximately 15mins to where it meets the wall. The trail is generally well-marked with orange flagging tape.A nearby apron trail is marked with pink flagging tape. Be warned, if you use the eastern-most pullout and you start from the pink flagged apron trail at the road, your approach will be much more than 15 minutes, sufficiently convoluted, and generally less enjoyable.

Protection Suggest change

All pitches are fully bolted and all anchors are two bolt anchors with rappel rings or maillons. Most pitches can be linked with a 60m rope, depending on your willingness for rope drag. However, the original topo only mentions following 60m link-ups:Pitch 1 & 2, can be linked with 60m ropePitch 4 & 5, can be linked with 60m ropePitch 10 & 11, can be linked with 60m ropeNote: You can start on Pitch 4 by hiking in from the left or from the right if approaching from the trail with pink flagging.