Where's the Remote?

UPDATE: Alternative rap route has been installed as of 28 July, 2019. See below for updated descent.

Marble Canyon is a chossy limestone area where rockfall is normal. Climbers need to be very careful if choosing to climb under other parties.  

Please note, during and after heavy rainfall, rockfall and debris flows can occur. Water-saturated gravel from the large terrace above the lower Apron produce debris flows over routes on the Apron.  

Pitch 1, 5.8:

Start 50m down and right of Sisyphus on a bolted arete. Climb the arete (stay on arete) past 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor on a small ledge. 22m, 6 bolts. UPDATE: 3 new bolted routes have been added to the wall left and right of the arete start (5.9-10b).

Pitch 2, 4th:

Scramble up a 4th class slab to another two-bolt anchor on the wall beside a large, coniferous tree. 15m, no bolts. Easily linked into pitch 1.

Pitch 3, 5.7:

Begin left of anchor. Climb up to first bolt, then diagonally up right to the arete. Follow the arete up to a ledge with a dead tree and two-bolt anchor. 22m, 6 bolts.

Option: link pitch 2 into pitch 3. Use some long slings to avoid rope drag. (40m, 6 bolts)

Pitch 4, 5.9:

Step right from belay, then climb upward to the arete passing two bolts. At the steep wall, clip a bolt from the arete then reach for a jug. Another bolt just up left of the jug provides added protection through the crux. Pull up onto the face, then step gingerly left to the arete. Follow the arete past a tree with a cordalette to a two-bolt anchor. 35m, 8 bolts.

Move belay 15m up and left on the terrace to a single bolt belay at the bottom of the slab.

Pitch 5, 5.7:

Climb straight up the pocketed slab to a two-bolt anchor. 35m, 8 bolts. Can easily link this into pitch 6. 

Pitch 6, 5.6:

Traverse right past a bolt into a left-facing corner. Climb up the corner, trending right past three bolts to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 20m, 4 bolts.

Option: link pitch 5 and pitch 6. (55m, 12 bolts)

Pitch 7, 5.10a:

Climb up and right from the belay to a bolt. Follow bolts as they meander up though interesting features to a two-bolt anchor on a ledge. 40m, 13 bolts.

Pitch 8, 5.9:

Climb up directly above anchor into a crack feature. Trend up leftward along the crack feature to a small, overhanging bulge. Pull left over the bottom of the bulge, then up to the arete. Follow arete diagonally rightward to two-bolt anchor. 35m, 11 bolts.

Rappel the route from here. 

Note: you can rappel the route from any pitch with a 60m rope. To prevent knocking rocks on any climbers below, use the alternative rap route installed:

From the top of pitch 8, rap straight down to the anchor on the top of pitch 7. From here, rap slightly skier’s right to a separate rap anchor on the wall at a small ledge. Rap to the top of pitch 5. Rap skier’s left from the top of pitch 5 to make it to the mid-route terrace (careful, it’s a rope-stretcher). From the mid-route, treed terrace find the rap anchor on the wall skiers left of the top of pitch 4. Rap straight down 4 times using bolted rap rings on the slab. On the third rap, go over a steep wall skiers right to find the last bolt anchor on the slab below.

To rap from the bottom pitches (up to the first tree with a cordalette), rappel straight down the arete to the top of pitch 2. From the anchors at the bottom of pitch 2, you can rap skiers right to a small ledge ~1m above the ground (careful, it's a rope-stretcher)

Marble Canyon on the lower wall.

Approach:

Park at the gravel pullout on the lake side of the highway ~2kms west of the BC Parks Marble Canyon campsite (on Crown Lake). Cross the highway and follow a well-defined trail (starts near a white highway sign). About 3/4’s up the trail, a diagonal trail in the scree leads rightward up directly to the base of the climb. 

13 Draws, 60m rope.