Brown Sugar (207)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 50.85129, -121.70446 |
| FA: | Garry Brace, Peter Cowan -1972 |
| Page Views: | 1,034 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | oldgoat on Oct 20, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Danny O'Farrell, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
The Ministry of Transportation has the power to restrict parking along these roads entirely (including for day use), so please be sure to abide by their rules to ensure our continued access to this area.
Description
Hike the trail to the Lower Apron. Head for the slabs located directly above the trail as you near the wall. Find your way through the lower slabs to the base of a prominent sickle (3 pitches). Either traverse to the left or follow the sickle into a left-to-right diagonal groove. There is a bolted belay with 2 large Metolius rap hangers at the top of the sickle pitch.
Continue rightwards, diagonal up, past bolts now, passing another bolted chain belay station, to a large ledge. There is a bolted chain station on the ledge to belay/rap. Follow bolts up the orange groove chimney directly above the belay bolts. A steep block, protected by a bolt at head height, gains a comfortable belay ledge with another bolted chain station.
Continue up the wide chimney above for a couple more short pitches or climb it all in 1 long pitch. Bolts and bolted anchors. You can rap back own to the large ledge with a single 60m rope. Continue rapping skiers right, stopping at chain stations for Stone Marmot. A single 60m rope gets you down.
Location
Park at the first gravel pullout (lake side of Hwy) when coming from Marble Canyon Provincial Park Campground (east of the trailhead). Follow the trail that starts behind a speed limit sign across the Hwy. Follow the trail to the Lower Apron (~15mins). The start of the route lies overhead on the slabs as you near the wall. Route is #207 n the Lower Wall topo



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