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Routes in Mount Sir Donald

Northwest Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Uto Peak Southwest Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Description

Mount Sir Donald is is one of the premier destinations for Mountaineering in BC, especially alpine rock climbing. Even without a Fifty Classics route (the Northwest Ridge) it would be popular as it presents a beautiful profile from the highway. This profile is very much reminiscent of the classic shots of the Matterhorn.

While there are other routes on the peak, up to about 5.9, and all sides, 95% of the ascents or more are on the Northwest ridge.

Unlike many alpine rock climbs in the BC interior, this one requires no glacier travel and while many do bivy at the base, it can be done in a day car-to-car.

First ascent of the peak was by Emil Huber, Carl Sulzer, and Harry Cooper in 1890 via the SW face.

Getting There

Mount Sir Donald is located in Glacier National Park (the Canadian one) along the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy. 1). Once in the park, look for the Illecillewaet campground. The trail to the Sir Donald-Uto col starts here. Info about Glacier National park here and information about the Alpine Club of Canada's Wheeler Hut here

Excellent map of Glacier and Mt. Revelstoke Parks here

It's about a 630km drive from Vancouver or 350km drive from Calgary. It could be accessed from the US via a variety of routes aiming more-or-less north from either Coeur d'Alene or Spokane (about 560km or 350miles from either).

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Sir Donald

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
 35
Northwest Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northwest Ridge
 35
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X Trad, Alpine
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