New Dark Ages

Pitch 1 5.10+ 20m-30m. Climb up ledgy terrain to the first bolt. Face climb past 2 more bolts, eventually gaining the crack system and climbing through a blocky roof. Pull onto the slopy stance and clip the 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 5.11 30m. Climb seams through small offsets with a cruxy move down low into varied 5.10 splitters as the angle eases. 2 bolt anchor

Pitch 3 5.10 50m. Climb up the splitter into the right facing corner, past a cool overlap to a pedestal. 2 bolt anchor. 

Pitch 4 5.11+ 40m. Climb off the pedestal past the first bolt. Clip the second bolt and slab down and right to gain the left facing corner. Climb up the dihedral on gear and clip two bolts through the crux changing corners. Climb the corner to an overlap, clip the pin and pull onto the slab. Climb up the seam through impeccable stone to a 2 bolt anchor. The 5.10 seam protects well with a couple finger cams or good nuts then very small but good cams and offset brass. A short run out to the anchor gets more positive as you go.

Pitch 5 5.11 40m. Climb up the corner through a juggy roof and into a diagonal crack splitting headwall. Build a belay at the first ledge (.2-1, .5 works well). 

Descent: Gain the main ledge that spans the top of the cliff and follow it to the south until it’s highest point.  Before it turns the corner, look down, there is a 2 bolt anchor. Rap straight down to the pitch 4 anchor and continue to rap the route. (4 double rope rappels get you back to your shoes). Alternatively, climb up ~1500' of 4th to low 5th class to the summit of Dragontail peak.

I established this route ground up over the course of six trips spanning two summers.  I had the help of Dan Kluskiewicz, Jason Lambert, Tanner Jones, Stuart Beckman and Anthony Lubetski.

This wall gets shade until 2. It is the coolest wall in the range, perfect for when the temps are soaring. Please do be aware of rockfall coming down the glacier when it gets late into the season. There is a reasonably protected area to rack up on the slabs. I never saw any rockfall make it quite down to there in September last year but it’s certainly possible. July and most of August were pretty mellow.

Above the toe of the colchuck glacier to the right of the Boving/Christensen

Doubles BD .2 – .75

Single BD 0 - .1

Single BD 1 - 2

Offset nuts including brassies

For an onsight, I would recommend an extra set of cams from 0 - .2 in addition to what's above. Offsets are nice.

2x60m ropes

ice axe and crampons