Type: Trad, 2000 ft (606 m), 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Tom Hargis and Jay Ossiander, 1973
Page Views: 26,538 total · 146/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Aug 27, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

A very exciting and aesthetic line, which climbs the ridgeline on the right side of Dragontail Peak. Climb up an obvious dihedral system, past two trees with webbing on them until you reach a large terrace (done with a 70 meter rope). Next, continue up to a stance about 60 meters away where a rock is slung with webbing. Move up to the large pillar and go around right to set up your belay. The next two pitches are the crux 5.8 pitches and can be linked with a 70 meter rope. Move right from the pillar, across the face and into a large crack. Climb this until you can traverse left across a small, nobby slab and up another crack system that turns into a small dihedral. Belay up over a small hump right next to a piton. Continue the next pitch (past the two 5.8s) up left. For the rest of the route stay on the ridge line. There is a small down-climb and then after it move up right towards the summit. At the last part go around left of the summit block and follow a well traveled path to the top. Beware of loose rock through much of the low 5th class climbing. All of the technical climbing is solid.

Location

Located on Dragontail Peak, about 200 feet right of the Backbone route, on top of a bulging pile of rocks. It is the ridgeline that is right of the ridge that contains the obvious face near the top.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3 inches. Doubles up to 1.5 inches is optimal, excluding the very small sizes (like metolious purple and silver). Some long runners, about 12 draws (including runners). Crampons and ice axe are important for the decent. Helmet!

Photos