Complete Northeast Buttress

This route is long.  It may be one of the longer routes in the range.  It is described as the "1984 Variation" in the Beckey guide book.   

Starting from the base of the buttress, climb cracks/chimneys for about 4 pitches. Contrary to the Beckey guide, the rock is not great and a fall could rip both pro and rock. This section is 5.6-5.8 R.  The next pitch has good rock and goes up to a chimney that takes you onto the other side of the ridge crest (5.7-5.8).  We stayed on the right side of the crest for the rest of the climb. The rest of the climbing is 4th to easy fifth (5.5 max) class climbing on slabs.  This section is quite long and best simul climbed.  The route ends in the towers short of the true summit. You can descend to the snowfield and hike to the summit.   

After the initial pitches the rock improves and is quite good.  We never found the piton mentioned by Beckey nor was there a need to rappel. We stayed below the ridge and likely intersected with the Dragonfly route high on the face.   

Descend Asgard pass.  

The route has been done in the winter.

Start at the lowest point of the buttress in the chimney system

Standard alpine rack. Ice axe depending on snow conditions for approach/descent.