Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, 2500 ft, 20 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,192 total · 138/month
Shared By: Colin Bartholomew on Mar 7, 2011 with updates from Nick Sweeney
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

This is a uber classic in the Enchantments. From Colchuck lake, Head towards the lowest protrusion of rock approximately in the middle of the peak. Bear slightly left, where you will see two possible starts. Take the left or right start of the first couloir. Ascend this until you reach the runnels. These are the steep snow and ice pitches separating the first and second couloirs. These take ice screws depending on conditions or pitons and some rock gear. From the top of the runnels continue up the second couloir. Exit the second coulior via a mixed pitch or steep snow pitch depending on conditions. Continue up the less steep third couloir to the summit. From the summit ridge go right to the true summit. Descend down and right to a notch. From here, take a direct line towards Asgard Pass.

Location

Enchantments. Up from Colchuck Lake.

Protection

This climb really requires a great deal of soloing or run-out climbing. Therefore it is not recommended for beginners. Comfort on steep snow is a great asset on this climb. Also climbing WI3 very comfortably is a plus.
A medium rack including small nuts, 4-5 pins, and cams from .5-2 and 4-5 ice screws (but you probably won't use that many). A couple pickets also are helpful.
This thing is a little taste of Chamonix in the Stuart Range. SO FUN!! May 14, 2014
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  AI3 M3 Steep Snow
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  AI3 M3 Steep Snow
Amazing climb. Get on it when the conditions are good and you will have the time of your life!
Rack recommendation for good conditions with lots of snow+ice(what we had):

2 pickets
2-3 knifeblades
2-3 10cm screws
1-2 13cm screws
Small and medium nuts
Cams .3-2

Have fun! Mar 30, 2015
Jarrod LaFountain
  WI3-4 M3 Steep Snow R
Jarrod LaFountain  
  WI3-4 M3 Steep Snow R
Late season run on 5/16. Snow couloirs are solid with memorable climbing in the runnels and between C2 and C3. The views at the top of C3 are wild!

Placed 2 or three pickets in questionable runout or bad snow spots and as anchors, put a few small cams here and there in runnels and one area took a screw. Simul-climbed the rest (only need ~40m rope).

Enjoy this classic! May 18, 2015
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
  AI3 M3 PG13
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
  AI3 M3 PG13
Climbed 5/7/2017 in amazing conditions. Firm snow/neve necessitated front pointing for the majority of the route. Fun ice and easy mixed through the runnels. Simul-climbed the three couloirs in long blocks, plus a few pitches in the runnels and the top of the 2nd couloir.

Gear list:
3 pins (thin)
Nuts + a couple hexes
Cams (BD 0.5, 0.75, 1.0)
6X screws (bring short screws, ice is rarely thick enough for longer ones)
2X pickets (got a lot of use, I wouldn't want to do this in firm conditions without them)

I don't think this route deserves the "R" rating, "PG13" maybe. You can't sew it up, but the climbing is mostly moderate and there is enough gear to keep you attached to the mountain. May 8, 2017
Tried climbing this April 28th weekend 2018
Got to the first runnels and they were melting / shedding ice bombs. We retreated and got hit by a big chunk of ice on the way down.
Just in case anyone is looking for conditions right now.... Apr 29, 2018
Kyle McCrohan
Brier, WA
  WI2+ M3+ Steep Snow R
Kyle McCrohan   Brier, WA
  WI2+ M3+ Steep Snow R
We climbed this March 31, 2018. Runnels were too thin for inexperienced mixed climbers like us, so we took the runnels bypass, up and right, which featured an 80m pitch, mostly sugary snow on top of slab with a few easy ice moves. We rappelled down into the runnels here and did one awkward, difficult mixed chimeny (M3+?) before entering the second the couloir. The pitch between the second and third couloirs was very thin. I could not get in pro for at least the first 80 ft, but thin knifeblades probably would have worked in places. It was very slabby and generally easy, but I'm not experienced in this and it felt uncomfortable. The third couloir was easy with one fatter ice step (best ice of the entire route) near the top.

My evaluation of pro:
- pitons and small cams worked best.
- 10cm screws most useful, only got int maybe 2 13 cm screws the whole way.
- pickets useless in the rotten, sugar snow.

The snow bypass is pretty efficient if the runnels don't look good. It's described in the Beckey guide well and pretty easy to figure out. Dec 16, 2018