Dragon’s Jaw

Update: a bolt has been added to the boulder move at the start of P3, one of the more consequential moves despite being easier.

Overview

Inspired by the hanging teeth-like formations throughout the route, Dragon’s Jaw is located on a steep section of the northeastern-most buttress of Dragontail Peak. If you are a jack-of-all-trades climber, this is for you. The route consists of face climbing, fingers, perfect hands, perfect fists, squeeze chimneys, roofs, underclings, laybacks, and stems in sustained moderate sections guarded by brief but powerful cruxes. It shares a top out and rappel with Dragons of Eden.

The first 3 pitches were FA'd rope solo, ground up, onsight on 8/12/24. The remainder was FA'd ground up, onsight on 9/2/24 in a clean lead of the overall route. Special thanks to Chris Borg and Edward Toumayan for belaying and gardening.

Description

P1 - “Approach Pitch” 5.9+, 45m: Follow a broken, but generally left trending, wide crack (5.7) that sits on low angle terrain directly below a prominent overhung slab, aiming toward a ledge on its topleft. Make an airy (5.9+) move right onto the ledge, then build belay with small gear.

P2 - “Leaning Cracks” 5.10a, 35m: Head up the corner system, deviate left onto a rail feature 25ft up clipping 2 pitons, and reenter the corner to meet two prominent cracks that are leaning “away” (5.10a). At the top of the hand crack, gain the ledge and immediately move left onto the face to follow a left-trending shallow crack until a fixed nut. Do a hand traverse onto the large sandy ledge and belay from a bolted anchor.

P3 - “Belly of the Beast” 5.10b, 35m: Scramble up and make a 5.9 boulder move on a bolt to gain the ramp at the base of the twin cracks. Then unload your entire bag of wide tricks through the cracks and a chimney, which protects within. Make a heroic exit by surmounting the “dagger”, a glorious protruding chock, then take a picture to send to mom. Belay from single bolt anchor (a directional might help get the rope around the dagger).

P4 - “Gaping Roof” 5.11a, 35m: Climb onto the slab to the left of the chimney. Head straight up the right corner (5.9) with sinker fingers and good feet right where you need them. Place a piece out on the roof, shake out, and punch through this short but powerful section. Dance your way up another 20ft to a ledge and build a belay here.

P5 - “Hands” 5.9+, 30m: Get into the rightmost crack above by stemming and reaching. Belay on a slabby ledge below a right facing corner.

P6 - “Finale” 5.10b, 40m: Enjoy an easy corner crack to a ledge, then commit to the final crux - a well protected layback above and out right. Cracks on easing terrain lead to the rappel anchor of Dragons of Eden. Build your own belay anchor here as this route has a different direction of pull.

Descent

Rappel as for Dragons of Eden (double 60m ropes) or continue to the top of Dragontail Peak via Northeast Buttress.

Hike to Colchuck lake and begin ascent towards Asgard Pass. Cut right to cross the stream about 100 ft below the first set of cliffs on the trail. Aim for the scree hill to the right of the mossy stream beds. 3-4 hrs from Stuart Lake Trailhead. The route is between the starts of NE Buttress and Dragons of Eden, about 100ft to the left of the latter.

Doubles from #.2-3, single #4, optional #4 and #5. 6-8 alpines.

If climbing with single #4 (no #5), you should be comfortable bumping it a few times.