Type: Trad, 2000 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: weigelt+bonnerville aug 1970 with fin Cruver+Lewis Jul 1975
Page Views: 27,857 total · 199/month
Shared By: Pax on Dec 2, 2007 with improvements by Twisty Deets and 1 other
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


69 Opinions

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Description

There are good images in the comments that could be utilized to create an actual "beta" section for this climb.  I just completed it yesterday and some info about the start, the orientation of the pitches en route to the OW, the looseness of the stone between the OW and the Fin, especially the choss highway preceding the Fin, and the amazingly precarious blocks one should expect to find throughout the route would all be welcome additions.  There's a notch at the top of the Fin that could be a good visual goal to keep people on route, go too far left and you're in the Triple Couloir gully, too far right and you might find yourself pulling some 10hard crack moves without feet, only to have a blank wall of the other side or old rap tat from other parties.

Gear, double rack to 2" plus 4" and 6" will offer plenty of gear for simul sections and belays as well as keep everything very safe without extraneous weight.  

Thanks for putting in the effort to make this site totally fucking awesome!

Location

On the north face of Dragontail peak. To climber's left of Serpentine Ridge.

Protection

A #6 camalot is required for the offwidth. Other than that, a medium rack to #3.5 camalot outta do it. But #5 will become handy in multiple locations, even the "fin".

Photos