Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 39.5026, -105.36836
FA: Kevin Capps, 2025
Page Views: 68 total · 7/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Apr 21, 2025
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

For those looking for thuggy hand jamming out a steep overhang, this is your route!

The Beak begins on Flight Primary and ends on Flight Secondary, but it skips all of the bolts and traverses out the steep prow or beak at about mid-height.

Start with some moderate hand jamming before getting to a rest stance where the beak begins. You can plug some hand-sized pieces here in the undercling. From there, pull a very committing sequence to go under and around the beak where you'll find a crack where you can place a variety of cam sizes - I placed a purple Totem just below where you can get a solid left hand jam. Once you protect the next sequence, prepare for a burly boulder problem for a few moves before getting to the more comfy hand-sized crack. One more outro-sequence awaits you, so be sure to protect the middle of the route before topping out.

Once you pull over towards the top, you can place some finger-sized cams or even a much larger blue Camalot in the undercling. I opted for a finger-sized piece.

Be sure to extend your 2-3 pieces of gear before pulling around the corner of the beak to the left. Since you climb under the beak before going up, the extensions are nice to reduce the rope drag.

This is a tough one to grade. It's extremely tricky to figure out the roof sequence, but I think once you figure it out, it comes together quickly. Maybe it's in the 12b/c range. Hopefully other people bring a rack and give this a try! It's not the most classic route on the wall, but it is certainly the steepest and has some amazing hand jams in the beak!

Location Suggest change

This route begins on Flight Primary and ends on Flight Secondary, but it skips all of the bolts and traverses out the steep prow, or beak, at about mid-height.

Protection Suggest change

I used singles of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75 and doubles of 1s and 2s. You could definitely bring a second 0.5 and 0.75 and a third #2 though if you wanted to really sew it up.

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