All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Raven

Yatagarasu

Name: Yatagarasu
Rating: 2.1

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in The Raven

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerial Acrobatics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fight Secondary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flight Bombay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Flight Primary S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grey Jay S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grip S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Huginn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Morrigan, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Muninn S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Optunivor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pilgrimage to Lordran S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Playing in the Updraft S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rave On TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rook, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Steller's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Trickster in Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Yatagarasu T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	PH, CH, AP
Page Views:	832 total · 37/month
Shared By:	Alan Prehmus on Jul 25, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

Yatagarasu has three excellent stacked boulder problems. The start in the flaring inside corner & the bulging slab go at ~10c. The roof is significantly harder.

Climb the corner for 20 feet. Transition right to the base of the bulging face under the roof. Climb the face to the crack through the roof. There are good holds in the roof and at the lip. There is not much above that.

It's easy to reach the bolted anchor from Munnin to set a TR. Climbing to the roof lip is quite worth while even if you can't pull the last 3 feet.

Location

Yatagarasu is right where the approach trail reaches the cliff. It starts in a small steep corner with an overhung right side. It's 8 feet left of the Huggin hand crack.