| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 39.5026, -105.36836 |
| FA: | Chandler Van Schaack, 10/15/23 |
| Page Views: | 733 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Chandler Van Schaack on Oct 16, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
The closure of Raven will be in effect starting Sept. 10 as hand crews will begin felling trees in the southern area of the work zone.
Mason Creek Trail will remain open until Sept. 29th at which time helicopters should begin flying trees out down to the meadow lot area
Starting Sept. 29, closure of the Mason Creek Trail will force the closures of the Dines and Reynolds Wall areas 7 days a week (per ryan laird).
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Description
The Unkindness is essentially the free version of “Corax,” which Alan Prehmus did as a C2 aid climb in 2022. It follows the prominent black streak/seam system on the right side of the slightly overhanging wall between Optunivor and Welcome to Baltimore/Flight Bombay. The route is essentially comprised of four boulder problems stacked on top of each other. The climbing is powerful and technical and may prove to be particularly unkind to those with smaller wingspans. The rock quality is exceptional (for Staunton), and the movement is super unique and fun with some kneebar trickery, a bit of compression, some finger locking, and a wild redpoint crux “bird move” between bolts 5 and 6 that will put your fight or flight instincts to the test.
I sent it with the first two bolts stickclipped. While this is probably not strictly necessary, it eliminates a potential groundfall if you were to botch the second clip on the go. A long draw is nice to have on the last bolt. At least one kneepad (right) is recommended as is taping the top of the left index finger (just trust me). Because the route is so short and the clips demanding, an attentive belay is required (think “tight but soft”).
Many thanks to Alan Prehmus for reaching out and giving his blessing to bolt this line.
Location
It follows the prominent black streak/ seam system on the right side of the slightly overhanging wall between Optunivor and Welcome to Baltimore/Flight Bombay.




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